Type: Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Sharon Vaughan, 2000
Page Views: 2,404 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

I'm giving this route two stars because of the really cool arete move, despite the fact that the climbing to that point is easy and a little dirty, and despite the totally unnecessary first 8 bolts. The first 8 bolts are all next to good and easily-placed gear on easy climbing (maybe one 5.8 move). Why are these cracks bolted? The bolt on the arete, the bolt above that, and the anchors are the only bolts needed. Other routes on this wall (e.g., Arcanum) do not have bolts where there is good gear.

Start 30 feet right of Mystic Mile, just left of a flake leaning against the base of the wall, midway between two large trees.

Pitch 1 (10a, 8 bolts, 130 feet): Eight Miles High shares the first 6 bolts with Mind Bender, a 12a A0(?). Climb easy and somewhat dirty rock to a steep headwall. Mind Bender continues straight up. Instead, clip the 6th bolt with a long sling and traverse straight left to a horizontal hand crack. Clip the 8th bolt with a long sling, place a yellow Alien above to protect the reachy clip of the 9th bolt on the arête. Teeter up the exposed crux move to a good stance. Clip another bolt and climb straight up at about 5.9, or move right a bit, to the anchors and a small but good stance. The Wave (10a) climbs to these same anchors from below and left. The arete section could be much harder if you are short. If you are tall enough, you can rest right on the arete prior to doing the crux.

With a 70m rope you can lower to the ground (rope drag might be bad). With a 60m rope the belayer would have to climb up a bit (tie in to the end!). Plan B would be to bring the second up and rap (100').

Pitch 2 (5.6, 3 bolts, 80 feet): I didn't climb this pitch. This is according to Rossiter: Ascend a sloping shelf, a slab, and belay from a tree at the top of the wall. Exit right to Serenity Ledge. 80'.

Protection

Pitch 1 (130'): 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. 2 full-length slings for the 6th and 8th bolts. Yellow Alien to protect the clip of the 9th bolt on the arete. Pitch 2 (80'): 3 bolts to a tree. You should be able to hike or climb left to the anchors for Mystic Mile.

Photos