Sleeping Beauty Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,450 ft |
GPS: | 39.997, -105.417 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 30,361 total · 161/month |
Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Aug 29, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Sleeping Beauty is a wonderful, large rock located just west of Black Widow Slab and offers a great selection of crack and face routes in a beautiful seting high above Boulder Creek. The rock receive early morning sun and stay cool in the late afternoon. The rock is surprisingly featured with good edges, cracks, pockets and smears. Bring a standard rack for the cracks and numerous quickdraws for the long, bolted slab. You may need two ropes to rap from the top of the rock. Check this place out. The climbing is great.
Getting There
Drive 8.6-miles up Boulder Canyon to a pullout/parking area on the left directly across the road from the Boulderado. Cross the creek and head up the trail to the Beer Can. Veer left at the Beer Can and follow the trail along the base of the rock to the route of your choice. Check outboulderclimbs.com for more information.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sleeping Beauty
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
22 Comments
More About Sleeping Beauty
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Guidebooks (19)
I had looked at this wall for years before actually reaching the top from the west side. I was very impressed by the scale and relief of the big northeast face. I came back the next year (1996) with Leah Macaluso and Moe Hershoff and put up the route Aerial Boundaries. Over the next few years, with a variety of excellent partners, I established more than 36 pitches, comprising 20 some routes.
This is still a new crag and the routes are not as clean as those in Eldorado, but it is well worth a visit. Be careful with rappels as the main wall is 200 feet high. Check the info at boulderclimbs.com to get it right.
Richard Rossiter Oct 6, 2003
I would like to know what it was that we climbed. It was a short route, 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Start on a slab with three bolts next to a thin crack (bad fingers) that leads to a small overhang. A solid handjam allows one to reach up and clip the fourth bolt, then awkward climbing leads past the 5th bolt to the anchors. The route is about 35 feet long. I can't describe where on the wall it was since yesterday was my first trip to Sleeping Beauty wall so I know none of the landmarks.
I would guess the route was about 12a plus or minus a letter.
Any info would be greatly appreciated. We did some other routes as well, but only one was in the books/websites. It sure would be great to have more info available on the undocumented Sleeping Beauty area routes.
Anyone? Many thanks in advance.
bob Jul 28, 2004
cheers, Bob Jul 29, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
I've done only 5 of the 15 routes on this photo. The other lines are drawn in based on Rossiter's descriptions, eyeballing the crag and the photo, and from what I could tell when on nearby climbs. Rather than argue about minor details here, it would be better to e-mail me corrections and suggestions. If I am wildly wrong on any of the routes, feel free to post corrections here. Aug 22, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
NORTH SIDE TYROLEAN and THE NORTH TRAIL: Find the tyrolean just upstream from the parking area for ANIMAL WORLD and the BOULDERADO. Once across the stream, hike south into a talus field and look for a relatively clean line up the talus into a steep path that leads up toward the Beer Can. Then follow a good trail east along the bottom of the wall. The trail gets steeper toward the end and climbs to Ledge Two (the big ledge that runs across the Main wall) in the vicinity of the routes LIGHTSPEED and KAMA SUTRA.
WEST SIDE TYROLEAN and THE WEST TRAIL: Find the tyrolean just downstream from the parking for Easter Rock. Once across the stream, look for cairns and an opening through the forest slope. Hike straight uphill for maybe 150 feet, then follow a long climbing traverse right for 200 feet. Cairns lead back left into a narrow gully. Hike up the gully, then break right and follow cairns (as usual). This beautiful trail passes through open forest and leads to the top of Sleeping Beauty. Descend east maybe 100 feet to a staging area near the upper belay/rappel anchors for the CRACK OF DAWN.
It is also possible to branch left just before the highest point along this trail and follow a less distinct path west to an open area above the rappel rings for Lost Highway and the Orgasmatron. A short but very exposed downclimb (just left of a scrub juniper) leads to a small ledge and the belay/rappel rings. Aug 2, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder, CO
Boulder, Colorado
Three Boulder climbers took time, energy, and their ropes to install this feature for the access of Sleeping Beauty. Why was it cut down??? Sep 21, 2006
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Boulder, CO
As of 6/8/09, the Sleeping Beauty tyrolean (by the Boulderado/Animal World parking area) is no more. All the ropes have been removed and there is no trace left. The removal happened some time in the past month, perpetrated by persons unknown.
Climbers wanting to climb at Sleeping Beauty or the Beer Can during periods of high water (like now) will have to use the Vampire Rock tyrolean, several hundred yards downstream, and hike back up the far side of Boulder Creek. Jun 9, 2009
As of this evening, the Sleeping Beauty tyrol is in (this is the one at the west end of the Animal World/Boulderado parking). 2 strands of static line that should keep us out of the quickly rising water when the creek goes over the top of Barker Dam tomorrow or the next day. Thanks to all the MP folks that donated static line when I put out the call a few weeks back. This is another tyrol done with that rope. I still have a few more to hit, but we're making progress.
Hope this will last a while before someone cuts it down -- I wish I knew who was cutting these down and why. Jun 6, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Front Range, CO.
Boulder, Co