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Elevation: 7,450 ft
GPS: 39.9965, -105.4168
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,050 total · 247/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sleeping Beauty is a wonderful, large rock located just west of Black Widow Slab and offers a great selection of crack and face routes in a beautiful seting high above Boulder Creek. The rock receive early morning sun and stay cool in the late afternoon. The rock is surprisingly featured with good edges, cracks, pockets and smears. Bring a standard rack for the cracks and numerous quickdraws for the long, bolted slab. You may need two ropes to rap from the top of the rock. Check this place out. The climbing is great.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive 8.6-miles up Boulder Canyon to a pullout/parking area on the left directly across the road from the Boulderado. Cross the creek on foot or by a Tyrolean traverse at the upstream end of the parking, and head up the trail to the Beer Can. Veer left at the Beer Can and follow the trail along the base of the rock to the route of your choice. Check out boulderclimbs.com for more information.

If the water is too high and the Tyrolean traverse by the parking lot isn't up, take the long way around.  First, go to Black Widow Slab.  Walk downstream along the road, cross the Tyrolean for Vampire/Black Widow, and navigate the talus and woods (see Black Widow area page).  This part is on the map: Walk right along Black Widow Slab until it turns uphill, and head for the talus field.  Go up until the talus ends, then bushwhack far up and slightly right until you reach the South Pillar of Sleeping Beauty.  Continue right to the main wall.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sleeping Beauty

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Walk on the Wide Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Kama Sutra
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Black Rain
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Eight Miles High
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Mystic Mile
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Mystical Melange
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Lost Highway
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 48
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Lightspeed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Wings of Desire
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 33
Mind Bender
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
MLK
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 7
Cross Your Mind
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
 10
Aerial Boundaries
Sport, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk on the Wide Side Main Wall
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kama Sutra Main Wall
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Black Rain S Pillar
 41
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Eight Miles High Main Wall
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mystic Mile Main Wall
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mystical Melange Ledge One
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Lost Highway Lost Highway Area
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid Main Wall
 48
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lightspeed Main Wall
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wings of Desire Main Wall
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mind Bender Main Wall
 33
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
MLK Main Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Cross Your Mind Lost Highway Area
 7
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Aerial Boundaries Main Wall
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 Sport, Aid
More Classic Climbs in Sleeping Beauty »

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