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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome

Blind Date S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Misanthrope, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pummeling, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Repulsion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio, Bill Launder
Page Views: 1,652 total, 9/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 25, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This alluring line climbs the steep, southeast-facing blue/white wall about 40 feet right of Lois Lame, ending at a double-bolt anchor under a small roof between some large, cracked pillar-type features. Though it appears ultra-overhanging and blank from the ground, the line is blessed with great deep pockets, hidden from below, and doesn't climb as steeply as it looks.

Start by rockaneering up and to the right of an ugly cleft/chimney full of choss. Step back left, clip the first bolt, and continue up grey, shitty rock. At a right-trending diagonal, the stone turns bomber, about 40 feet up. Clip a bolt, step left, and continue traversing left on killer buckets until you're just below the person-sized hueco. Put your long slings on the bolt below and the bolt at the hueco to prevent rope drag higher on the route.

Have a seat in the hueco, take in the view, then up to another bolt. The climbing to here, about halfway up the route, makes for a good, overhanging 5.10+ warm-up.

Bust through two distinct cruxes separated by good pockets to a finger-lock rest below the finishing corner. Clip a bolt, stretch high for the final clip, and battle past an in-your-face finish to the anchors.

This was named for the book by Bret Easton Ellis.

Protection

12 quickdraws, two shoulder-length runners, and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.12c
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.12c
I broke off a hold that looked like people were using to go left to avoid a second crux at the last bolt. I think going direct (hands right of the last bolt) at the end easily bumps this route to 12c. Mar 21, 2017
William Mondragon  
  5.12b
Another amazing Samet route. Feb 10, 2016