Type: Sport
FA: Dave Pegg
Page Views: 634 total · 3/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 7, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15 Details

Description

This is the second route in from the left on the Pummeling Wall and climbs to the same anchors as Tommy's 11+. It sits about 20 feet right of that route, and starts up a semi-fractured obtuse corner and turns a little roof.

Another landmark on the route is a small pine tree growing out of a hueco at 1/3 height.

Negotiate the corner (caution on the footholds) to the first clip. From here the climbing is continuous, deceptive and bizarre. This route was introduced to me as a "5.11d" warm-up; by the time I found myself totally gripped and flash-pumped at bolt seven, I knew I'd been sandbagged. The departure of a nice clipping jug at bolt three has also made the line harder. Expect sporty climbing.

Encounter a crimp crux at 2/3 height, then move slightly left to join the finish of Tommy's 11+. Beta hint: The rock is white, so tick marks are no use, and all the holds face the wrong way. Nevertheless, a brilliant face climb, even more so once you dial it in a bit.

A second pitch could easily (?!) be added to this or Tommy's 11+.

Protection

14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).

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