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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glamorama S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hadley Gulch Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Majestic, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Misanthrope, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pummeling, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Repulsion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.67763, -107.56932 |
| FA: | Dave Pegg |
| Page Views: | 1,433 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Mar 7, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
Description
This is the second route in from the left on the Pummeling Wall and climbs to the same anchors as Tommy's 11+. It sits about 20 feet right of that route, and starts up a semi-fractured obtuse corner and turns a little roof.
Another landmark on the route is a small pine tree growing out of a hueco at 1/3 height.
Negotiate the corner (caution on the footholds) to the first clip. From here the climbing is continuous, deceptive and bizarre. This route was introduced to me as a "5.11d" warm-up; by the time I found myself totally gripped and flash-pumped at bolt seven, I knew I'd been sandbagged. The departure of a nice clipping jug at bolt three has also made the line harder. Expect sporty climbing.
Encounter a crimp crux at 2/3 height, then move slightly left to join the finish of Tommy's 11+. Beta hint: The rock is white, so tick marks are no use, and all the holds face the wrong way. Nevertheless, a brilliant face climb, even more so once you dial it in a bit.
A second pitch could easily (?!) be added to this or Tommy's 11+.
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