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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome

Blind Date S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glamorama S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Misanthrope, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pummeling, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Repulsion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder
Page Views: 809 total, 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jan 23, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the first, or leftmost (southern) route in the Gothodrome itself. It climbs up the tan/yellow rounded buttress on the left edge of the cave on gently overhanging, sandy stone, with a fair bit of choss. (In fact, Dave Pegg, who originally bolted the line, was so unimpressed with the sand factor that he unscrewed his bolts and hangers from the holes.)

There is a belay bolt drilled into a block at the base of the route. I recommend you use it, as the sloping hillside and lack of a good stance mean you will be yanked *hard* into the wall if the climber falls off.

Make a leftward traverse to the first bolt (5.7, a little sketch), then climb the grey slab past another bolt, climbing carefully across the ledge/choss band where the slab hits the wall. Move up the wall past six more bolts on good, deep pockets, on stone that gets better the higher you climb, to a double-bolt anchor. Dave had bolted the route to go a bit higher (hence the bolt and bail biner you'll see above the anchor), but it ends at a pretty natural stance now as is.

You absolutely need a 60-meter rope for this one, as you lower out into space. Airy and sort of "out-there" for the grade.

Protection

10 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).

Photos

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Much better than the name would suggest. Great warm-up. Feb 21, 2016