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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome

Blind Date S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Misanthrope, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pummeling, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Repulsion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 865 total, 5/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 16, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This line follows the left-leaning blunt arete on the right side of the Gothodrome, and is a highly visible feature, easily distinguished from the main trail down in Hadley Gulch. It follows a line of black and silver Metolius hangers on the right side of the arete. A nice face route could be bolted to the right, in the blue/black water streaks.

Step off a kind of heap of loose blocks into a corner feature, lay it back, and stretch high and right for the first clip. Traverse across onto the face and into the base of a faint groove and clip a second bolt. Take care with the protruding block/blob just above this bolt.

Climb the groove to its end, a few bolts higher (5.12a). From here, 30 feet of sustained business up the arete, sometimes changing sides, leads you to a decent flat hold on the gold-colored face and a shake-out. 5.11+ pocket/hueco climbing leads to the anchors, another 40 or 50 feet higher, over the lip of a little roof. You could also use this route to access the top of the Fortress.

The moves on this one are great, the rock bomber. It just needs some traffic to get the dust off, so bring a toothbrush with you.

Protection

12-14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).

Photos

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chris righter
  5.13b
chris righter  
  5.13b
Way, way, way dirty...good mid section, then super dirty to anchors. Worth the adventure. May 4, 2008