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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome

Blind Date S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Misanthrope, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pummeling, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Repulsion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder
Page Views: 1,196 total, 7/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 26, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the third route in from the left on the Pummeling Sector, and the rightmost of the trio of routes you first see at the top of the approach trail. It can be distinguished by the black Metolius hangers on most of the bolts, and climbs a sustained, gently overhanging face up a grey/black water streak on killer stone. Thankfully, this route has little or no Fortress Powder on it.

Climb past the first bolt on a clean, grey face into a patch where some big blocks fell off. Move through a rooflet, then continue up the face on sidepulls and bear-hug moves on bizarre, mini-corners. A small, final roof before the finishing slab might be the pump crux. It's a bit runout from the final bolt to the anchors, but there are good edges up there--you just need to take the time to find them.

A second pitch could be added, most likely. This could be one letter grade harder or easier than 5.12c. I dunno.

Protection

14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).

Photos

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Hey Matt:

Are you guys using the Powers 5-piece zinc plated bolts or the Fixe SS wedge bolts for the news routes here? Is there much seepage in the limestone at the Fortress? Apr 16, 2004