Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth & Dale Remsberg
Page Views: 939 total · 5/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

All three of the routes on this south-facing buttress are classic. Cat Dancing is typical thin, flared Lumpy and requires skill in placing solid RPs and provides a good calf pump. Ramses has two challenging cruxes at roofs, with a runout (and slightly loose) 5.9 section to reach the wildness. King Tut pulls three roofs up the middle of the cliff and feels more like a sport climb with big reaches and powerful moves on solid gear. All three of these routes provide a range of climbing styles and represent the diversity of climbing that Lumpy Ridge contains.

Protection

This route sits between the classic pitches of Ramses (10c/d) and The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing (11a) on the Isis Buttress which splits the corridors of the Renaissance and Living Dead Walls.

This new route starts as for Cat Dancing but pulls the first roof right of Cat and past the one bolt on the new line. Go straight up through the next overlap (small but solid gear available) to a crux finish below the final roof. Protection for the crux consists of a solid #3 Camalot and a solid #1 TCU before reachy moves below the final roof. Doubles of #1 and #2 TCUs are helpful. There is a new two-bolt anchor directly at the top of this pitch which also works as an anchor for the two routes on either side.

A 30 meter rappel down and west brings you to a ledge with a large tree from which you can traverse north off of the cliff.

Photos