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Routes in Isis Buttress

Arapilumps T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bart's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Boy Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flaked Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Isis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Tut T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road Kill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shinbuster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport Pages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Topher Donahue, Kennan Harvey
Page Views: 72 total, 0/month
Shared By: JeffO on Jul 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

With a style of climbing reminiscent of Mt Arapiles, Australia, this route might also be dubbed "too pumpy for Lumpy". Unlike the bulging calves and thought provoking, veins popping out of the forehead, slabbing that Lumpy has to offer, how about getting your lumps Aussie style? After a short ways up Isis, head up the steep wall that forms the left side of the dihedral, following some flakes, and a black water streak before moving right to a large flake. A slung hole at the top backed up with a fixed stopper provides the anchor. Note the 11d rating is on the "Arapa-Chumps grading system" which means this one isn't for number chasers as you'll most likely be putting out 5.12 effort while only getting to spray about pulling a 5.11 at the pub. By heck, it's good on ya to be humble, mates. Although only one stars given, this route is a great alternative to the standard Lumpy fare and definitely worth a visit. Enjoy!

Protection

One set of stoppers plus TCUs and cams to a #3 Camalot. There's one fixed stopper on the route. You might want an extra #3 Camalot to place before leaving Isis and heading onto the route to keep a downward pull on your following pieces.

Photos

JeffO
 
JeffO  
 
Hey Folks........judging from the only piece of webbing found at the anchor of this route being the original webbing that the FAs left in '95, and the substantial amount of cleaning that was done, no one's probably even thought of climbing this route over the past 10 years. Anyway....it's been cleaned up now and the climbing on it is better than it looks. The other bad rap I've heard about it is that the gear is "funky". That might be true, but I still wouldn't give it an "s". Well maybe a s- but the gear is bomber at the crux. If you're looking for a little variety at Lumpy, this route is worth a try. Oct 3, 2004