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Routes in Isis Buttress

Arapilumps T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bart's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Boy Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flaked Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Isis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Tut T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road Kill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shinbuster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport Pages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Wylie, Hanson, Kimball-'82
Page Views: 185 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Christiansen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is the first 20-25 feet of the Direct Dead Boy, but instead, you make a thin, rising traverse to the right until you hit the small ledge. The climbing on the traverse is very thin and takes a little bit of balance as well. TR or go up the 5.10a crack to another anchor.

Protection

Not much gear but some small to med stoppers, med-hand sized cams, one or 2 very small RPs.

Photos

slim

  5.10b PG13
slim    
  5.10b PG13
I had looked forward to doing this route for quite a while, but I ended up being a bit disappointed. The route was ok but not really what I was expecting. Mostly easy climbing with a brief crux, some of the rock isn't that great, a fair amount of bird crap, feathers, etc. I didn't think the protection on the traverse was all that great, particularly given the direction of rope pull, how close the gear was to the lip of the crack, the size of the gear, etc.

For me, the crux was the nasty one legged step-up with not much for hands. Do this in crisp, shady temps with fresh toes. For short folks, the move after the step-up might be the crux.

I'm pretty surprised to see Tony give this 10a, as he usually describes the thin balancy stuff to not be his forte. I thought it was pretty tough. May 10, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
You can continue through this pitch an up the arete to the right for a total of 65m to an OK belay, and then another pitch to a huge slung spike of rock. From there, rap down 35m to tree, 20m to ledge (sling raps) 15m to George's Tree bolts, then 20m more to ground. Don't skip a station unless you like stuck ropes.... May 30, 2010
Luke Clarke
Golden
  5.10b
Luke Clarke   Golden
  5.10b
LIked this climb a lot. The dihedral gives us nice warm up in the hard 9 or easy 10 range and the pitch ends with a committing but protectable crux. Red micro Camalot fits nicely just before the crack closes off. but RPs would work nicely too. Continuing with the next two pitches of Living Dead seems a good choice. Weather went bad on us after two pitches but we got down in two raps from bolts with a single rope so it was a good choice on an iffy weather day. Jul 18, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
See Road Kill for a photo of this and nearby routes. Jul 11, 2004