Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Isis Buttress

Arapilumps T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bart's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Boy Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flaked Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Isis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Tut T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road Kill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shinbuster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport Pages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: FA: Hickman, Anderson, Bryant 1969 FFA: Unknown FFA (Hand fi
Page Views: 135 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Climbs the impressive dihedral and roof system to the left of 'Book of the Dead Chimney.' Looks much harder than the grade, but looks can be deceiving. Both of the cruxes felt no harder than 10b.

P1: Start on the right side of the face below the massive dihedral and roofs above. Work up and left on easy terrain until following cracks inside the big right facing dihedral. Continue and hand jam over the first small roof and belay before the bigger roof (8).

P2: Climb the first strenuous roof and wiggle up to easier terrain above, but don't head towards the original finish, instead jam the steep hand crack on the left wall up to the arete! Belay right here, peeking over to watch your second battle.

Climb directly left and down to 1st and 2nd tree or 3rd tree.

Rap 100ft from 2nd tree, or about 80ft from 3rd along the route Pharoah's Child.

Protection

Standard rack including RPs.
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Sling horn, where were you?

Also, the overlap of P1 is 5.8.

I'm going to try to clean up P1 next time I go back. It would be a great climb without the grunge of P1. Jun 1, 2010
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Very windy today so we stuck low, managed to cruise up the first pitch to the slinged horn. The overhang near the end of P1 could go at low 9, but I give the first pitch an 8-. Feb 2, 2009
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
With a 70m rope I lead from ground to 15' above roof/headwall, with very little rope drag, a much nicer pitch. Above the 5.0 section, my partner Trevor found really nice hand cracks on an arete going in the 5.7 range that made it a great outing. Jul 26, 2006
Joseffa Meir
  5.10a
Joseffa Meir  
  5.10a
There is a fixed stopper at the roof move which was quite nice to have. Overall, a neat pitch with some interesting moves. Jul 5, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
You know, I was a little disappointed. The first pitch was "blah" 5.8. The second pitch opened with an awkward sequence with some bad rock, and I broke off the footholds on which I was stemming. I had I nice time on the last 40', but that's 40' out of 200'. Surely nothing to write home about. Jun 27, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Good route, but not as good as it looks. What seems to be a 20 foot roof at the top of the big dihedral is just a few awkward and difficult well-protected moves to get stemmed out left. After that it's a minor grovel, right side in, left leg stemming. The final crack is gorgeous--good to be back to normal climbing--but short. More of a finger crack/layback than a hand crack.

Jesse, in his original posting of this route, rates the climb 10a, but says "no move over 10b". Gillett says 10b for the first crux and 10a for the final crack. Doesn't much matter since the pro is good and cruxes are short.

No bird shit as of today. Jul 11, 2004
Nikos  
Well, I guess some stars have to be taken out of this one. There are bird droppings on every sloper on the first pitch. I guess it is because it's not visited often. Anyway, just to let you know.... Aug 13, 2002