Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: FA: Hickman, Anderson, Bryant 1969 FFA: Unknown FFA (Hand fi
Page Views: 240 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Climbs the impressive dihedral and roof system to the left of 'Book of the Dead Chimney.' Looks much harder than the grade, but looks can be deceiving. Both of the cruxes felt no harder than 10b.

P1: Start on the right side of the face below the massive dihedral and roofs above. Work up and left on easy terrain until following cracks inside the big right facing dihedral. Continue and hand jam over the first small roof and belay before the bigger roof (8).

P2: Climb the first strenuous roof and wiggle up to easier terrain above, but don't head towards the original finish, instead jam the steep hand crack on the left wall up to the arete! Belay right here, peeking over to watch your second battle.

Climb directly left and down to 1st and 2nd tree or 3rd tree.

Rap 100ft from 2nd tree, or about 80ft from 3rd along the route Pharoah's Child.

Protection

Standard rack including RPs.

Photos