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Routes in Isis Buttress

Arapilumps T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bart's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Boy Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flaked Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Isis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Tut T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road Kill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shinbuster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport Pages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 753 total, 5/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on May 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is a mostly thin crack starting 20' left of the route "Left Out" on the buttress just west and across the gully from "The Man who Loved Cat Dancing".

Location

The start is a short, right-facing dihedral which begins at a small overlap at knee level- miss the first move and you may understand the route name. Step left at the end of the thin crack to the right-facing corner which leads to the fixed anchor for both this route and Left Out.

Protection

Two bolts protect the opening sequence and the remainder of the pitch is protected by small cams and nuts.

Photos

Looking at it from below, one forms the impression that the business will be the slabbing past the two bolts and the runout past the second to the crack. The full erroneousness of this impression is brought home the entire way up the crack which is continously challenging and a constant struggle for decent gear. Even though that for a new Lumpy Climb, this is quite clean, there is still enough lichen in the crack to obscure some of the placements. Nonetheless, a pretty good pitch for fans of the Lumpy slab crack genre. Jun 17, 2007