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Fast Boat to China
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 120
votes
Early Access
Routes in Industrial Buttress
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Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fast Boat to China T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Forgotten Names S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.76842, -105.21838 |
| FA: | '92 by Scott Berk, free solo? |
| Page Views: | 4,541 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Jan 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure
Details
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This is the left crack system between Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags and The John Roskelly Show. The upper part is visible in the photo below as the right-leaning twin cracks on the left side of the photo.
This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.
The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.
12 Comments