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Routes in Hen and Chickens

Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hagakure T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rooster Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: H.Suzuki
Page Views: 1,912 total · 9/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

A good toprope problem or fairly scary lead, Hagakure is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the small buttress directly below the SE corner of the East Owl (about 100 feet high, with a pointy summit). The approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail leads directly to it.

The route starts in the large left-facing corner on the right side of the rock (Cackle Crack). Branch out left in a tricky 5.11 crack after about 10 feet. Reach a small ledge, rest, and continue up a right-angling seam, with some fixed pitons (crux).

Rappel from a fixed anchor or continue on Cackle Crack. You can scramble up to a ledge below the summit block to set up a toprope off of gear, but it is almost as easy and much nicer to lead Cackle Crack to the same spot.

Protection

Bring very small gear.
If debating whether to lead or to TR this, you should consider leading because the TR fall is a nasty cheese-grate swing into the Cackle Crack dihedral at the 11a crack. The pitons at the crux are close together as well which are really not that bad, but old. Really tough crux. Apr 19, 2003
Gotta disagree with Nate's comment. Taking a fall on top-rope is neve an issue but falling on those old pins up top could be. I pulled one out with my hands last summer. This is a great and perfectly safe top-rope. Apr 19, 2003
Oh I need to mention...I replaced the pin that I pulled out but its disappeared since....I'm not sure if its back or not? Brent, can you remember if the center pin is in or not?

All and all a fun little route...too bad it isn't longer it would be a classic! Apr 19, 2003
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.12a
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.12a
Put it this way: if you're up to leading this route safely, then the toprope fall should not bother you *at all*. It's nothing. I've toproped this route many times...I'll probably never lead it. The pro is OK if the pins hold, but you have to trust super-small gear in pin scars to back them up. Apr 21, 2003
The middle pin is gone. You can cobble your courage for the crux moves to the upper pin with some "voodoo" gear in the old pin scars. The crux is really thin, powerful, and the gear??? Jun 25, 2003
This route is fine to TR (with no swing into CC). Just clip both pins for directionals. Clip the lower pin with a long runner. Jul 31, 2006
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
A purple TCU or RP fits great in the finger slot right between the two pins. You can use a sloper on the right side of the crack instead. Either way...tough 3 moves to the rail! Nov 19, 2008
Great route. Stout for the grade. I went ground up for the onsight and slipped right at the top. Seems hard for the listed grade but not inordinately so; just took another couple of tries to suss it out. There are currently only three pins in the upper crack, and the bottom, least essential pin is the only one worth a damn. The second pin belongs in a museum, and the top pin protrudes significantly (you'd tie it off if you were aiding). Fortunately, there is gear, very small gear, available to supplement the fixed gear. A #00 C3 was helpful. Aug 6, 2015
Anchor replaced 4/22/18. The previous modern anchor had been partially chopped, but they failed to get the right bolt out (it was a spinner - the bolt spun). So people were using a rusty 1/4" and a partially pulled out spinning 3/8" bolt. Anyway the chopping was probably because that modern anchor was placed quite close to Cackle Crack. My guess is that the old 1/4" bolt next to the seam was probably a single bolt anchor, since it was a long 1/4", and there was no sign of another bolt or piton. I don't know if it was a previous aid route or if Hidetaka just placed one bolt (at his weight he probably couldn't break a safety pin...). Single 1/4" bolt anchors were fairly common back then (and they tended to be long 1/4").

In any case, I managed to remove the spinner bolt, patch both holes of the modern anchor, and pull and re-use the original bolt hole. I debated simply putting a pro bolt there and letting leaders finish on Cackle, but the oldest guide I have clearly shows a rap anchor there, so I drilled a new bolt left of the seam. Now the anchor is in a better position (very close to the original) for Hagakure and it will be quite difficult to get to from Cackle Crack. I'll add some photos.

Bolts are 3/8 x 2.25" stainless 5-piece, I wasn't going to hand drill any bigger than that in good granite! Apr 22, 2018

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