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Routes in Hen and Chickens

Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hagakure T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rooster Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: H.Suzuki
Page Views: 1,801 total, 9/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

A good toprope problem or fairly scary lead. Hagakure is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the small buttress directly below the SE corner of the East Owl (about 100 ft high, w/ a pointy summit). The approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail leads directly to it. The route starts in the large left-facing corner on the right side of the rock (Cackle Crack). Branch out left in a tricky 5.11 crack after about 10 ft. Reach a small ledge, rest and continue up a right-angling seam, with some fixed pitons (crux). Rappel from a fixed anchor or continue on Cackle Crack. You can scramble up to a ledge below the summit block to set up a top-rope off of gear, but it is almost as easy and much nicer to lead Cackle Crack to the same spot.

Protection

Bring very small gear.

Photos

Great route. Stout for the grade. I went ground up for the onsight and slipped right at the top. Seems hard for the listed grade but not inordinately so; just took another couple of tries to suss it out. There are currently only three pins in the upper crack, and the bottom, least essential pin is the only one worth a damn. The second pin belongs in a museum, and the top pin protrudes significantly (you'd tie it off if you were aiding). Fortunately, there is gear, very small gear, available to supplement the fixed gear. A #00 C3 was helpful. Aug 6, 2015
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
A purple TCU or RP fits great in the finger slot right between the two pins. You can use a sloper on the right side of the crack instead. Either way...tough 3 moves to the rail! Nov 19, 2008
This route is fine to TR (with no swing into CC). Just clip both pins for directionals. Clip the lower pin with a long runner. Jul 31, 2006
The middle pin is gone. You can cobble your courage for the crux moves to the upper pin with some "voodoo" gear in the old pin scars. The crux is really thin, powerful, and the gear??? Jun 25, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Put it this way: if you're up to leading this route safely, then the toprope fall should not bother you *at all*. It's nothing. I've toproped this route many times...I'll probably never lead it. The pro is OK if the pins hold, but you have to trust super-small gear in pin scars to back them up. Apr 21, 2003
Oh I need to mention...I replaced the pin that I pulled out but its disappeared since....I'm not sure if its back or not? Brent, can you remember if the center pin is in or not?

All and all a fun little route...too bad it isn't longer it would be a classic! Apr 19, 2003
Gotta disagree with Nate's comment. Taking a fall on top-rope is neve an issue but falling on those old pins up top could be. I pulled one out with my hands last summer. This is a great and perfectly safe top-rope. Apr 19, 2003
If debating whether to lead or to TR this, you should consider leading because the TR fall is a nasty cheese-grate swing into the Cackle Crack dihedral at the 11a crack. The pitons at the crux are close together as well which are really not that bad, but old. Really tough crux. Apr 19, 2003