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Routes in Hen and Chickens

Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hagakure T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rooster Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,417 total, 12/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on the Hen and Chicken Rock (to quote one guidebook, when is a hen not a chicken?), which is the small, 100 foot high buttress (with pointy top) just below the SE corner of the East Owl. The approach that leaves the Gem Lake trail after about 1/4 mile leads directly to it. Rooster Tail is the prominent right-arcing hand and fist crack on the left side of the rock; near the top, follow a thin finger crack that slashes back left (crux). Walk off east.

Protection

Standard rack; bring a #3 Camalot.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
I thought entering the crack at the bottom was the burly crux and exiting the crack up high was the technical crux. Neither seemed to warrant the + rating for me, but I can see this being more difficult if you're a bit smaller... maybe 5.10a if you're small. Aug 19, 2012
Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, North Carolina
 
Adam Paashaus   Greensboro, North Carolina
 
I have never finished this climb by following the crack all the way to the end, but I would recommend the "finger crack" standard finish. It, for me, was the crux and probably the most fun section of the entire climb. Mar 6, 2011
grega Albrechtsen  
  5.9+
Climbed this route yesterday, and it was very fun. Crack seemed to get bigger as you went (scrapes all over my left leg says so). Why does the "proper route" go left? Seems much more fluid to keep following the natural arching feature to the right (so I did). Fun and challenging finish (for me). Interesting feet, too. You'll want to stay in the crack, but really can't, because it starts to arch too much. Don't worry as there are lots of feet on the face at this point. I recommend NOT leaving the bigger gear (3 to 4 BD) in the car... Oh yeah, had the whole area to ourselves ALL day.. cheers Jul 31, 2006
Petro
Golden, CO
Petro   Golden, CO
A [challenging] finish is to continue the arching crack all the way up. It protects fine, and is a fun flarey offwidthy face/like finish. I'd say 9+. Aug 1, 2005
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9+
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9+
Agree with you Leo, the last 10' of this climb is up the face to the left of the crack, using the crack maybe twice in that span for right hand finger tip lock outs. Nice finish on good rock with very gritty texture. Jul 26, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9+
The term of finger crack seems generous. It seemed to climb much more like a face climb...somewhat reminiscent of the Perfect Finger Crack of Boulder Canyon. Jul 24, 2005