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Routes in Hen and Chickens
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Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hagakure T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rooster Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.40313, -105.51695 |
| FA: | n/a |
| Page Views: | 1,116 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | jmapping on Sep 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a pretty fun route that sees little traffic and so is a bit dirty but could clean up nicely. There seems to be a couple ways to climb this section of the wall, but we followed the wide crack down low and the obvious flaring corner/chimney higher up.
Start behind a boulder at the base of 2 parallel cracks (6 inch crack on left and hand-size on right). Climb the wide crack on the left for about 25 feet. At this point, you could take the seemingly easier route straight up if desired.... We went left and climbed a nice large flared corner/chimney for another 25 feet requiring some good ol' fashion jamming (hand/fist) and chimney technique. It gets much more narrow for the last 10 feet but then quickly puts you on easy terrain at the top of the Hen and Chickens formation. Climb easy terrain for another 20 feet or so before belaying at the top close to the walk off trail.
If anyone knows the real name or who did the first ascent, please let me know and I'll update this entry.
Location
This is on the West side of the Hen and Chickens formation. You can see these cracks from Yosemite Crack if you look directly East and slightly uphill.
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