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Routes in Hen and Chickens

Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hagakure T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rooster Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: n/a
Page Views: 151 total, 3/month
Shared By: jmapping on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a pretty fun route that sees little traffic and so is a bit dirty but could clean up nicely. There seems to be a couple ways to climb this section of the wall, but we followed the wide crack down low and the obvious flaring corner/chimney higher up.

Start behind a boulder at the base of 2 parallel cracks (6 inch crack on left and hand-size on right). Climb the wide crack on the left for about 25 feet. At this point, you could take the seemingly easier route straight up if desired.... We went left and climbed a nice large flared corner/chimney for another 25 feet requiring some good ol' fashion jamming (hand/fist) and chimney technique. It gets much more narrow for the last 10 feet but then quickly puts you on easy terrain at the top of the Hen and Chickens formation. Climb easy terrain for another 20 feet or so before belaying at the top close to the walk off trail.

If anyone knows the real name or who did the first ascent, please let me know and I'll update this entry.

Location

This is on the West side of the Hen and Chickens formation. You can see these cracks from Yosemite Crack if you look directly East and slightly uphill.

Protection

0.5 to #4 Camalots (optional #5 & #6).

Photos

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Joe Trabucco
Wheat Ridge, CO
Joe Trabucco   Wheat Ridge, CO
Did this route today with gear up to a #5. Going left up the flared chimney was difficult. I don't think I agree with the 5.8 rating. 5.9 seemed more appropriate, especially the last 15 feet. Maybe I missed something key. Jul 3, 2017