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Routes in Hen and Chickens
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Cackle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hagakure T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rhode Island Red T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rooster Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Two In The Pink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,258 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, a 100 foot high, satellite crag that rests at the SE corner of the East Owl.
Take the appraoch trail that branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail; it leads directly to the buttress' base. Identify a large, clean left-facing corner (Cackle Crack). Rhode Island Red starts in a thin seam on the arete right of the corner (scary crux, RPs), then follows a good 5.9 hand crack across the wall to merge with Cackle Crack at the top of the corner.
Take the appraoch trail that branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail; it leads directly to the buttress' base. Identify a large, clean left-facing corner (Cackle Crack). Rhode Island Red starts in a thin seam on the arete right of the corner (scary crux, RPs), then follows a good 5.9 hand crack across the wall to merge with Cackle Crack at the top of the corner.
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