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Hagakure

5.12a, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 21 votes
FA: H.Suzuki
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Hen & Chickens
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Description

A good toprope problem or fairly scary lead, Hagakure is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the small buttress directly below the SE corner of the East Owl (about 100 feet high, with a pointy summit). The approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail leads directly to it.

The route starts in the large left-facing corner on the right side of the rock (Cackle Crack). Branch out left in a tricky 5.11 crack after about 10 feet. Reach a small ledge, rest, and continue up a right-angling seam, with some fixed pitons (crux).

Rappel from a fixed anchor or continue on Cackle Crack. You can scramble up to a ledge below the summit block to set up a toprope off of gear, but it is almost as easy and much nicer to lead Cackle Crack to the same spot.

Protection

Bring very small gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Balance.
[Hide Photo] Balance.
Moving through the crux.
[Hide Photo] Moving through the crux.
Bronson getting psyched for the crux!
[Hide Photo] Bronson getting psyched for the crux!
Stacking 2 tuning forks to remove the long (1.5") 1/4" bolt. Most 1/4" bolts are shorter (1-1.25") so you only need one tuning fork.
[Hide Photo] Stacking 2 tuning forks to remove the long (1.5") 1/4" bolt. Most 1/4" bolts are shorter (1-1.25") so you only need one tuning fork.
Long 1/4" bolt - original - and Fixe single ring hanger from the "modern" anchor. To remove the spinner bolt, I had to exert a lot of outward pressure, and the bolt core went flying. I searched for it but didn't find it.
[Hide Photo] Long 1/4" bolt - original - and Fixe single ring hanger from the "modern" anchor. To remove the spinner bolt, I had to exert a lot of outward pressure, and the bolt core went flying. I searched for…
Newly replaced anchor, the right bolt is where the 1/4" bolt was, the left is newly drilled. The "modern" anchor position is obvious from the wear of the ring on the rock.
[Hide Photo] Newly replaced anchor, the right bolt is where the 1/4" bolt was, the left is newly drilled. The "modern" anchor position is obvious from the wear of the ring on the rock.
Anchor after "modern" (partially chopped) anchor removed and holes patched.
[Hide Photo] Anchor after "modern" (partially chopped) anchor removed and holes patched.
Anchor before working on replacement, note the bolt hole left of the right bolt.
[Hide Photo] Anchor before working on replacement, note the bolt hole left of the right bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Christiansen
[Hide Comment] If debating whether to lead or to TR this, you should consider leading because the TR fall is a nasty cheese-grate swing into the Cackle Crack dihedral at the 11a crack. The pitons at the crux are close together as well which are really not that bad, but old. Really tough crux. Apr 19, 2003
Stephan Greenway
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…
[Hide Comment] Gotta disagree with Nate's comment. Taking a fall on top-rope is neve an issue but falling on those old pins up top could be. I pulled one out with my hands last summer. This is a great and perfectly safe top-rope. Apr 19, 2003
Stephan Greenway
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…
[Hide Comment] Oh I need to mention...I replaced the pin that I pulled out but its disappeared since....I'm not sure if its back or not? Brent, can you remember if the center pin is in or not?

All and all a fun little route...too bad it isn't longer it would be a classic! Apr 19, 2003
Tom Kimbrell
[Hide Comment] The middle pin is gone. You can cobble your courage for the crux moves to the upper pin with some "voodoo" gear in the old pin scars. The crux is really thin, powerful, and the gear??? Jun 25, 2003
grega Albrechtsen
[Hide Comment] This route is fine to TR (with no swing into CC). Just clip both pins for directionals. Clip the lower pin with a long runner. Jul 31, 2006
Q B
Estes Park
[Hide Comment] A purple TCU or RP fits great in the finger slot right between the two pins. You can use a sloper on the right side of the crack instead. Either way...tough 3 moves to the rail! Nov 19, 2008
Brian Treanor
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. Stout for the grade. I went ground up for the onsight and slipped right at the top. Seems hard for the listed grade but not inordinately so; just took another couple of tries to suss it out. There are currently only three pins in the upper crack, and the bottom, least essential pin is the only one worth a damn. The second pin belongs in a museum, and the top pin protrudes significantly (you'd tie it off if you were aiding). Fortunately, there is gear, very small gear, available to supplement the fixed gear. A #00 C3 was helpful. Aug 6, 2015
Greg Barnes
[Hide Comment] Anchor replaced 4/22/18. The previous modern anchor had been partially chopped, but they failed to get the right bolt out (it was a spinner - the bolt spun). So people were using a rusty 1/4" and a partially pulled out spinning 3/8" bolt. Anyway the chopping was probably because that modern anchor was placed quite close to Cackle Crack. My guess is that the old 1/4" bolt next to the seam was probably a single bolt anchor, since it was a long 1/4", and there was no sign of another bolt or piton. I don't know if it was a previous aid route or if Hidetaka just placed one bolt (at his weight he probably couldn't break a safety pin...). Single 1/4" bolt anchors were fairly common back then (and they tended to be long 1/4").

In any case, I managed to remove the spinner bolt, patch both holes of the modern anchor, and pull and re-use the original bolt hole. I debated simply putting a pro bolt there and letting leaders finish on Cackle, but the oldest guide I have clearly shows a rap anchor there, so I drilled a new bolt left of the seam. Now the anchor is in a better position (very close to the original) for Hagakure and it will be quite difficult to get to from Cackle Crack. I'll add some photos.

Bolts are 3/8 x 2.25" stainless 5-piece, I wasn't going to hand drill any bigger than that in good granite! Apr 22, 2018
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Greg, thanks for the updated anchors! This is a sweet little route and a spicy lead in August (hot, humid, rainy). I didn't have the right gear to supplement the old fixed pro in the upper crack, so clipping the last rusty fixed piece was pretty spooky and run-out. Made it memorable. Maybe pre-hang a long draw on the last piece, so you can clip from a decent stance before launching into the redpoint crux on lead. Stout 12a. Aug 3, 2020