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Routes in Second Buttress
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CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | perhaps some CMCer |
| Page Views: | 10,365 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required.
Details
Description
This is an short old route on the left side of the second buttress of Mt Thorodin. It is an eye-catching natural line that appears to have smaller features than it does. It is the obvious early line for the crag. This follows a crack/chimney system that appears plumb to the top. Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag. Addendum: the start can be a bit challenging to determine. Perhaps it merits 1.5 stars?
P1. Follow a right-angling crack/dihedral briefly until you are in the line of the crack/chimney system firing straight to the top. Belay at a tree.
P2. Continue up the right-facing crack/dihedral/chimney system as it widens out. Stem, wedge, jam, squirm out over an improbable-for-5.7 looking bulge, and gain a small ledge that used to have an angle for an anchor. Use big gear for an anchor.
P3. Continue up the crack/dihedral to the top with easier terrain.
Walk off left and back the the base.
Note, a pack on the back may prove challenging to climb with.
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