5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||perhaps some CMCer|
|Page Views:||10,365 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is an short old route on the left side of the second buttress of Mt Thorodin. It is an eye-catching natural line that appears to have smaller features than it does. It is the obvious early line for the crag. This follows a crack/chimney system that appears plumb to the top. Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag. Addendum: the start can be a bit challenging to determine. Perhaps it merits 1.5 stars?
P1. Follow a right-angling crack/dihedral briefly until you are in the line of the crack/chimney system firing straight to the top. Belay at a tree.
P2. Continue up the right-facing crack/dihedral/chimney system as it widens out. Stem, wedge, jam, squirm out over an improbable-for-5.7 looking bulge, and gain a small ledge that used to have an angle for an anchor. Use big gear for an anchor.
P3. Continue up the crack/dihedral to the top with easier terrain.
Walk off left and back the the base.
Note, a pack on the back may prove challenging to climb with.