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Routes in Mt. Thorodin

CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paddling About T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Paddling About Variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tenzing's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thorodin Ridge Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thorodin's Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Zephyr, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,346 total, 25/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a terrific route up the prominent, golden orange pillar and finger crack on the upper right side of the second buttress. Aiming for the pillar, climb about 100 feet of easy rock, and then tackle the right side of a prominent bulge via some face moves and a good crack (5.8/5.9). Continue up the crack to a good stance and a two-bolt anchor below the obvious, orange plaque split by a finger crack.

The second pitch climbs a bit of fun, moderate ground to a steep, left-facing corner with a tricky bulge. After a great rest, step left into the finger crack and power straight up with good pro and excellent locks and face holds. When the crack ends, face climb past two bolts to an anchor at the top. It is somewhere in the low to mid-5.10 range.

It looks like 1990s-era bolts. Hopefully someone will provide the name and take credit for this great route... and let us know if there are other hidden gems on Thorodin!

Location

The first pitch can be done as a long lead from the ground or a scramble (low 5th class) to a stance about 40 feet below the first-pitch bulge and belay there. Climb up and right to walk off or rappel the route. You'll need two ropes to get to the ground from the lower bolted anchor or you can reverse the fifth-class scramble to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
This route is incredible and not as thin as it looks. Perfect belay ledge before the finger crack. Some of the crimps towards the top in the bolts were a little friable. Jul 24, 2014