Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,152 total · 32/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on Jul 15, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

Find the prominent nose-shaped feature on the left hand skyline of the Second Buttress and follow the ridge down. There are a number of crack systems that go up, but the climbing should stay in the 5.5 range or there abouts. The first pitch we took had a nice crack to the left and good foot holds on easy slab climbing to the right. Each pitch was a full half rope length. Loose rock is common, so be aware.

You'll leave the trees behind and start into a groove system that follows the ridge line. The Nose feature is clearly visible up ahead and presents some interesting choices. Belay just below the right side of the Nose in a good crack system.

One way to pass the Nose is on the right. Climb up a ramp with a 3 inch crack and hop up and left into a V grove series with good pro on either the left wall or in the short dihedral. Stem up and turn the corner to great exposure as the wall drops away to the right. Continue on with 2nd and 3rd class moves on a narrow ridge to a large ledge with great views.

Scramble to the summit ridge roped or unroped, depending on how you feel. Walk off to the left following some cairns. Take care not to start down to far left.

Location

Second Buttress of Mount Thorodin.

Protection

Full rack with gear up to #4 Camalot.

Photos