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For Love of Mothernot [Edit]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mt. Thorodin
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CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chinook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Paddling About T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Paddling About Variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tenzing's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thorodin Ridge Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Thorodin's Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Zephyr, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 289 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Sep 14, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required.
Details
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
Description [Edit]
This is a pleasant 2 of 3-pitch, less-than-vertical, climb located on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thoridin. It is characterized by a slab on a big flake/plate with a single bolt on P2. P3 goes up along the inviting, thin, R side of a flake to a two bolt anchor.
From about 50 ft L of the start to the CMC Route, look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. That is the route's 2nd pitch. You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach by following a L angling 3rd to 4th class ramp to a big tree. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 ft of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the L of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.
P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, 5.6 crack/corner pitch to a ledge with trees and belay at a large tree on the R side of this ledge. 60-70 ft.
P2. Unless you are a slab aficionado, move L to a crack system, follow it up to the upper face, use long slings before you move onto the plate. Angle up & R to the bolt, clip, pull on delicate face (crux) to more moderate ground. Move L to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9. 130 ft A more direct, more runout version could be done picking a stiffer, straighter line up the slab.
P3. Move up to the thin, R edge of the obvious flake. Put in small aliens & wires and fire up this brief, fun flake-edge to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 85 ft. Too bad this flake wasn't 200ft long. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (80 ft & 130 ft, 2 ropes). 1.6 stars
From about 50 ft L of the start to the CMC Route, look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. That is the route's 2nd pitch. You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach by following a L angling 3rd to 4th class ramp to a big tree. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 ft of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the L of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.
P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, 5.6 crack/corner pitch to a ledge with trees and belay at a large tree on the R side of this ledge. 60-70 ft.
P2. Unless you are a slab aficionado, move L to a crack system, follow it up to the upper face, use long slings before you move onto the plate. Angle up & R to the bolt, clip, pull on delicate face (crux) to more moderate ground. Move L to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9. 130 ft A more direct, more runout version could be done picking a stiffer, straighter line up the slab.
P3. Move up to the thin, R edge of the obvious flake. Put in small aliens & wires and fire up this brief, fun flake-edge to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 85 ft. Too bad this flake wasn't 200ft long. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (80 ft & 130 ft, 2 ropes). 1.6 stars
Protection [Edit]
Single set of cams to #3 Camalot, Aliens, wires. P2. gear to #3 Ccamalot, 1 bolt, bring Aliens. P3. #3 Camalot, smaller Aliens, wires.
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