Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||514 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Sep 14, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
From about 50 ft L of the start to the CMC Route, look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. That is the route's 2nd pitch. You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach by following a L angling 3rd to 4th class ramp to a big tree. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 ft of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the L of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.
P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, 5.6 crack/corner pitch to a ledge with trees and belay at a large tree on the R side of this ledge. 60-70 ft.
P2. Unless you are a slab aficionado, move L to a crack system, follow it up to the upper face, use long slings before you move onto the plate. Angle up & R to the bolt, clip, pull on delicate face (crux) to more moderate ground. Move L to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9. 130 ft A more direct, more runout version could be done picking a stiffer, straighter line up the slab.
P3. Move up to the thin, R edge of the obvious flake. Put in small aliens & wires and fire up this brief, fun flake-edge to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 85 ft. Too bad this flake wasn't 200ft long. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (80 ft & 130 ft, 2 ropes). 1.6 stars