Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 968 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a pleasant 2 of 3-pitch, less-than-vertical, climb located on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thoridin. It is characterized by a slab on a big flake/plate with a single bolt on P2. P3 goes up along the inviting, thin, right side of a flake to a two bolt anchor.

From about 50 feet left of the start to the CMC Route, look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. That is the route's 2nd pitch. You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach by following a left-angling 3rd to 4th Cass ramp to a big tree. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 feet of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the left of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.

P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, 5.6 crack/corner pitch to a ledge with trees and belay at a large tree on the right side of this ledge, 60-70 feet.

P2. Unless you are a slab aficionado, move left to a crack system, follow it up to the upper face, and use long slings before you move onto the plate. Angle up & right to the bolt, clip, and pull on delicate face (crux) to more moderate ground. Move left to a 2 bolt anchor, 5.9, 130 feet. A more direct, more runout version could be done picking a stiffer, straighter line up the slab.

P3. Move up to the thin, right edge of the obvious flake. Put in small Aliens & wires, and fire up this brief, fun flake-edge to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 85 feet. Too bad this flake wasn't 200 feet long. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (80 feet & 130 feet, 2 ropes), 1.6 stars.

Protection

A single set of cams to #3 Camalot, Aliens, wires. P2. gear to #3 Camalot, 1 bolt, and bring Aliens. P3. #3 Camalot, smaller Aliens, and wires.

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