5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||626 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is a pleasant 2 or 3-pitch, less-than-vertical, climb located on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thorodin. It is characterized by a bolt protected arête/face on P2 and a bulge into a pair of parallel finger cracks on P3. It lies just left of the start to the CMC Route.
You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach as for For Love of Mothernot by following a left-angling 3rd to 4th Class ramp to a big tree. From there, it is goes strongly left to the left side of a face with 5 bolts on its arête. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 feet of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the left of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.
P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, non-descript 5.6 pitch to a ledge with trees, 60-70 feet.
P2. Move up moderate terrain with natural gear to the face with the 5 bolts. Hop onto the face proper, and scoot along the arête clipping 5 bolts (including one homemade beauty) to a ledge with 2 bolts, soft 9+, 130 feet.
P3. Go up & left to the left side of a triangular flake with a hidden bolt. Move up on pleasant terrain with double finger cracks to the ledge with 2 bolts, 85 feet. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (2 ropes), 1.4 stars.