Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a pleasant 2 or 3-pitch, less-than-vertical, climb located on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thoridin. It is characterized by a bolt protected arête/face on P2 and a bulge into a pair of parallel finger cracks on P3. It lies just left of the start to the CMC route.

You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach as for For Love of Mothernot by following a L angling 3rd to 4th class ramp to a big tree. From there is goes strongly L to the L side of a face with 5 bolts on its arête. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 ft of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the L of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.

P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, non-descript 5.6 pitch to a ledge with trees. 60-70 ft.

P2. Move up moderate terrain with natural gear to the face with the 5 bolts. Hop onto the face proper and scoot along the arête clipping 5 bolts (including one homemade beauty) to a ledge with 2 bolts. Soft 9+. 130 ft.

P3. Go up & L to the left side of a triangular flake with a hidden bolt.Move up on pleasant terrain with double finger cracks to the ledge with 2 bolts. 85 ft. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (2 ropes). 1.4 stars.

Protection

Light rack. P2. 5 bolts plus gear to #3 Camalot. P3. #2 & 3 Camalots, 1 bolt, and predominantly finger-sized gear.

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