Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, Mike Pont
Page Views: 5,804 total · 25/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 8, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This killer route climbs takes the very overhanging line just right of the cave in the center of the Project Wall, starting out of the dirt in the parking lot and not up in the cave itself. It can be recognized by a bulbous, blue tufa that gives way to very overhanging white rock at the start.

Sustained, cruxy climbing through the middle gives way to a rest, then another powerful bulge and a finishing headwall on depressingly slippery crimpers. This is a long pitch, bolted in the days when routes ended at half a rope length no matter what. Thusly, don't be discouraged when you find the finishing "jug" at the anchors is actually a flat sloper. Many people hang a long sling or two off the anchors and grab those once they have the sloper, before clipping.

Were this route extended, even just another 10 meters, it would surely be much, much harder. Nevertheless, it is a Rifle classic and a must-do at the grade.

Kneebar trickery gets you through the lower crux. Ask a local for beta.

Protection

15 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope (though a 50 meter should suffice).

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