Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: George Squibb
Page Views: 1,293 total · 6/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 13, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I avoided this route for years because of its funkous name, but it actually climbes quite nicely and is a good addition to the Project Wall.

Originally bolted in a aid solo frenzy in one afternoon by Duane Raleigh, this route collected cobwebs for a few years until George Squibb came along and freed it. It is one route left of Simply Read, and goes into Simply Read at the last bolt, sharing the same anchors.

Start with the second bolt pre-clipped (it would be nice to move this for free climbing) and bust a funky boulder problem to good holds under a roof. Stick in those knees, dyno high and left then work up flakes to a good jug. A final, complex boulder problem over the crux lip leads to a decent shake and some 12a getting up to the anchors.

Protection

10-12 draws.

Photos

Onsighted by Spain's Pablo Rodriguez in Sept 2005. Daaaaaaamn. Sep 28, 2005
Really hard to keep the kneebar in at the crux. Very frustrating route. Oct 24, 2014