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Routes in Project Wall
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Apocalypse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Apocalypse '91 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Baby Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Defenseless Betty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eighth Day (aka MC 900 FT Jesus), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fist Full of Dollars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gay Science, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Gayness, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Goofy Foot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hang 'Em High S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hang 'Em Higher S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Irie Meditation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Let it Burn S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Little Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Living in Fear S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Modest Mouse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mouse Trap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Of Mice and Men S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Present Tense S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Rehabilitator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sick Little Monkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Simply Read S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Simply Redlined S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sometimes Always S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Strange Ranger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Top Feeder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Twisted S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waka Flocka S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Waka Flocka Flame S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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War and Peace S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Christian Griffith |
| Page Views: | 3,690 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Aug 13, 2005 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Due to a poor guidebook description, and a lack of chalk, this excellent route is one of the most neglected routes on the [Project Wall]. With intricate moves, improbable holds, and [kneebar-dependent] moves, this route would be a 5-star classic at any other crag.
The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.
The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.
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