Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 2,243 total · 14/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 13, 2005
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Due to a poor guidebook description, and a lack of chalk, this excellent route is one of the most neglected routes on the [Project Wall]. With intricate moves, improbable holds, and [kneebar-dependent] moves, this route would be a 5-star classic at any other crag.

The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.

Protection

11 quickdraws including the anchors.

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