Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 5,376 total · 25/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the lefmost "tall" line on the Project Wall (Sick Little Monkey climbs through the blue, overhanging wall to the left) and climbs through grey-streaked rock onto a white and blue headwall with a faint dihedral near the top.

Without any discernible crux, this 90-foot route is a power-endurance nightmare and has only one spot where you can shake out both hands. The bottom used to be quite wet most of the season, but drier summers have left it consistently drier.

The "toilet-bowl" rest is better in cold temps. Was rated 5.13d by Scott, Wilbur Nazarian did it quickly and downrated to 5.13c, it held there for a while.

Consensus these days is 5.13d -- but hard-as-hell 5.13d.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws.

Photos