Type: Sport
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 5,025 total · 24/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This is the lefmost "tall" line on the Project Wall (Sick Little Monkey climbs through the blue, overhanging wall to the left) and climbs through grey-streaked rock onto a white and blue headwall with a faint dihedral near the top.

Without any discernible crux, this 90-foot route is a power-endurance nightmare and has only one spot where you can shake out both hands. The bottom used to be quite wet most of the season, but drier summers have left it consistently drier.

The "toilet-bowl" rest is better in cold temps. Was rated 5.13d by Scott, Wilbur Nazarian did it quickly and downrated to 5.13c, it held there for a while.

Consensus these days is 5.13d -- but hard-as-hell 5.13d.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Mia Axon sent Living in Fear in early fall 1995 after 12 days of work spread over two years. This marked the first time a route of the grade had been climbed by a woman in America. It was considered "easy" 5.13d at the time. Lynn Hill and Robyn Ebersfield had already climbed 8b and 8b+, but only in Europe. Dec 13, 2013
Aleks Zebastian
Boulder, CO
Aleks Zebastian   Boulder, CO
Enjoyable, bold, pumping flash. Forearms refreshed at crux. Perhaps not so difficult. May 1, 2015