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Routes in Project Wall

Apocalypse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Apocalypse '91 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bottom Feeder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Defenseless Betty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Day (aka MC 900 FT Jesus), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fist Full of Dollars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gay Science, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gayness, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Goofy Foot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hang 'Em High S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hang 'Em Higher S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irie Meditation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Living in Fear S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mighty Mouse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Modest Mouse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mouse Trap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Of Mice and Men S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Present Tense S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Rehabilitator S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sick Little Monkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Simply Read S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Simply Redlined S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sometimes Always S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Strange Ranger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Top Feeder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twisted S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waka Flocka S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
War and Peace S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport
FA: Kadie Johnston
Page Views: 5,655 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Defenseless Betty is another great Project Wall route. Stiff for the grade, it is all of 11d. Work up through the overhang just left of Hang 'Em High, climbing through the low roofs. Finish up the steep groove on great stone. It has technical moves to the end.

Protection

11 bolts to lower off.

Photos

There's plenty of thought provoking climbing on this route. A strenuous crux low down through the overhang is deceptively pumpy, then the crux high is very tricky. It took me several tries to riddle it out...and, afterwards, comparing notes with a "local", I don't think the sequence I used is very popular! In any case, this route was incredibly fun, probably the most enjoyable of the 11's (all good) on the wall (though, there was some talk of it being rated 12a in the new?!? book, soon to come out...). Highly recommended! Jul 25, 2002
A totally great line - one of the best sport routes I've ever done at this grade. The climbing is super-continuous, steep, and very engaging. It felt like a sandbag at 11d.

For what its worth, the new Dave Pegg guide ("Western Sloper") gives this route a 12a rating. Sep 16, 2002
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Rebolted this last summer with Fixe glue-ins from the ASCA and replaced all of the old nylon tat with fresh stainless links, ClimbTech permadraws and steel biners. Jun 14, 2013
MichaelAllen
  5.12a
MichaelAllen  
  5.12a
Fantastic line...steep and pumpy. I agree with the new book - it's 12a, not 11d. Jun 17, 2014

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