Type: Sport
FA: Kadie Johnston
Page Views: 5,713 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Description

Defenseless Betty is another great Project Wall route. Stiff for the grade, it is all of 11d. Work up through the overhang just left of Hang 'Em High, climbing through the low roofs. Finish up the steep groove on great stone. It has technical moves to the end.

Protection

11 bolts to lower off.

Photos

There's plenty of thought provoking climbing on this route. A strenuous crux low down through the overhang is deceptively pumpy, then the crux high is very tricky. It took me several tries to riddle it out...and, afterwards, comparing notes with a "local", I don't think the sequence I used is very popular! In any case, this route was incredibly fun, probably the most enjoyable of the 11's (all good) on the wall (though, there was some talk of it being rated 12a in the new?!? book, soon to come out...). Highly recommended! Jul 25, 2002
A totally great line - one of the best sport routes I've ever done at this grade. The climbing is super-continuous, steep, and very engaging. It felt like a sandbag at 11d.

For what its worth, the new Dave Pegg guide ("Western Sloper") gives this route a 12a rating. Sep 16, 2002
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Rebolted this last summer with Fixe glue-ins from the ASCA and replaced all of the old nylon tat with fresh stainless links, ClimbTech permadraws and steel biners. Jun 14, 2013
MichaelAllen
  5.12a
MichaelAllen  
  5.12a
Fantastic line...steep and pumpy. I agree with the new book - it's 12a, not 11d. Jun 17, 2014