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Routes in The Catslab

Crystal Cat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grizabella S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gumby Cat S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellicle Cats S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
MacCavity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Mistoffeles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mungajerry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Kat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Deuteronomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overflow Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rum Tum Tugger S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rumple Teaser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skimbleshanks S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Summer Fling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thinning the Herd S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: RMW and ABS, 1999
Page Views: 5,327 total · 26/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details

Description

The longest line on Catslab and my personal favorite, Jellicle Cats fires up the middle in either one long pitch or in two. Start with the Gumby Cat and keep on going. 5.10 cruxes arise right off the Gumby anchor and again in three more places. The harder of the cruxes is in getting out of a thin tips-only crack, and this an airy, committing move that relies on precise foot-work. Good stone, fun moves, and a wee bit bold all add up to three stars.

Protection

QDs only. This line tops out 140 feet above the deck and can be rapped with double ropes or in two stages with a 60 m rope.

Edit to add: There is now an anchor at the 115 foot mark that allows climbers to safely descend with one 70m rope.

Photos

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
I'm definitely not an expert on ratings, but, I find it hard to believe that this route is considered 10c. I might feel otherwise without all the bolts though...:) But, I climbed it in early spring, thought it was more like 5.8/9ish at most.... Who knows, maybe it was just an uncharacteristically (spelling??) good day for me?? Fun face climb though, very well-protected. Aug 2, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Must have been a good day or the wrong route. I have never, until now, heard anyone call this 5.8 or 5.9. Aug 2, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Hmmm..... Went back to my own notebook from 4/4/98. I had given Jellicle Cats 5.10a(?b). Perhaps we should either stick with original or split the difference. The 5.10c came out of Mark Rolofson's book. Aug 2, 2001
I think that the Jellicle Cat was a fun route it starts of pretty easy than towards the top it gets harder and gets hard to find holds, and I recommend a 60 meter rope, Aug 5, 2001
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Guess I'd have to go back and try it again, maybe it is harder than I remember. One thing that sticks out in my mind are all the cool little quartz crystals on the rock that you get to pull/step on. Pretty neat... There's a bolted route on the right side (climbers right) of the crag which goes up on slightly overhanging jugs....in that way, different from the other mostly slab routes. It was pretty fun, but has some loose-ish rock, and is kinda dirty. I think the book gave it a 10d which may be a bit generous? Not sure of the name, but, look out for loose stuff... But, isn't the crag closed, or?? Aug 6, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Catslab was not closed to climbing as of 8/4/01. Aug 7, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
5.9+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
5.9+
I'd have to agree with Joe Keyser, 9. Much of this slab seems overrated in difficulty, though. However, if you climbed it climbing the shortest line 'tween the bolts, ya might eek out a 10a, but you'd miss all these obvious holds....

Edit: went back on an off day 9 years later, and I think the route has lost some of the little edges that originally made it feel more like a 9. Sometimes, slab routes will do that. Mar 5, 2002
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You can lower off this climb at (140ft ???) and the rest of the climbs on the Catslab with a 70m rope. The quick draws must be cleaned.

Please knot the end of your rope, as your rope stretch and rope length may vary. May 9, 2005
First, nice climb. Crux for me was just above the first clip. Though, I tried to go around right rather than up the crack on the left.

A word on rope length. I have a 70m and it will not allow a full rappel to the deck. Either double rope rap down or tie stoppers on one rope, rap to the chains at the top of Gumby Cats, reset a rap there and finish the rest of the way. Good luck. Jul 22, 2008
Dale D
Parker, CO
5.10a
Dale D   Parker, CO
5.10a
Climbed it today in one long pitch. I used a 70m 9.2 rope (read strechy) and it got me down to the ledge just off the ground. Had to do 4 feet of "down climbing." I would put the first crux at 10a. I have done lots of slab all over the country including pure friction in North Carolina at Sone Mountain. Comparing, I think there are a couple of 10a moves after you clip the first bolt from the top of Gumby Cat. Mar 29, 2010
Luke Clarke
Golden
  5.10a
Luke Clarke   Golden
  5.10a
Maybe the best pitch on the crag (but I haven't attempted the 11). Mar 15, 2011
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
I climbed this with a friend. He lead it, then I lowered him to the mid anchor. He belayed me from the ground to the top and back to the ground. I then lowered him from the mid anchor. It worked out great with a 70m rope. Mar 15, 2012
Don't do the Gumby Cat and Jellicle Cats in 1 pitch even with a 70m rope. My buddy and I being the geniuses that we are thought we could. We were a good 7 feet short even with rope stretch. Play it safe and do this in 2 pitches. Better to be safe than sorry, guys. Mar 21, 2012
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
Erik...A 70m is just fine for doing it in one pitch. Just rap off in 2 pitches.... If your partner wants to TR the route, belay from the anchor or from Gumby Cat anchor like Ken did and then finish with a rap to the ground. Aug 13, 2012
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.10a
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.10a
This route is a lot of fun. There are several ways up it, and either of them make for one of the best routes on this crag. I only had a 60m rope, so I simply took about 25ft of 8mm accessory cord with me, rappelled down to the first clip that is about 10ft off the ground, simply untied from the rope, and rapped down the accessory cord which I looped through the first bolt hanger. Not exactly the text book way to get off, but it will work if you don't have a 70m or don't want to mess around with doing this in 2 pitches. Oct 13, 2013

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