Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,786 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

183 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details


This is the 3rd route from the left side of the Catslab between "Old..." and "Rumple Teaser".

The route follows the left side of a black streak up the slab. The climbing is very enjoyable on this route. At the 5th/6th bolt, stick to the bolt line, don't head about 6 feet left or you will skip the best moves on the route, small crimps with small feet. I think the original line goes left to the quartz block. This variation may be 5.10b?

This is very enjoyable, like many of the routes at the Catslab. Enjoy!


10 bolts - 2 bolt anchor approximately 95 feet from lower off. I would suggest 2 ropes, also for other routes at Catslab.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Cool quartz on this rock, but it's 5.9 at most. Mar 5, 2002
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. It has two distinct cruxes, which I felt were both 5.10a. It is more difficult than the other 5.10a on the far right side of the slab. "Might as well, might as well...." Jun 26, 2002
Be careful following the description that suggests moving directly up through some small face moves at one point rather than left to the quartz. While the thin face moves are certainly more interesting the crux is done with the last clip almost at your feet and a quartz ledge within striking distance below. If you come off on the face move, it will be difficult to keep from toeing the ledge. (Wasn't the cat named Mungo Jerry in the musical?) Oct 29, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
This route packs a nice punch of variety -- overhanging start, climb through some pockets, climb the funky quartz, and finish with thin moves to just below the anchors. Apr 19, 2004
Sweet route, the beginning goes real quick, but some moments of confusion towards the top...I'd say 5.10a just because of these. Fun route though May 28, 2005
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Yes. By all means, skip the quartz for the full 5.10 effect.

(Big. Dramatic. Sigh.) Which pretty much goes against my entire argument on the ratings controversy for "Gus." (Sigh again.) Who knew I was so inconsistent? Apr 5, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
I thought that thin move at the last bolt was worthy of a 10a rating. Must have been easy for Leo, but he was young back then and had strong fingernails. Our 60 meter rope made back to the ground with a couple feet to spare. Aug 25, 2010
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
I skipped the big quartz at the top and stayed right. It was definitely shaky and a bit thin for the hands. Lots of smearing and delicate balancing. Much harder than using the quartz. Mar 15, 2012
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff. Apr 10, 2013
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Led this today straight up for the first time without heading left to the big crystal bailout. Seems like 5.10 a/b. Actually harder than Rumple Teaser. Jul 11, 2013
Casey Gunther
Casey Gunther   Colorado
Definitely agree with previous posts that this route is a .10a given that the climber stays off the crystal. Aug 1, 2013
Travis Drake
Boulder, CO
Travis Drake   Boulder, CO
Nevermind the crystals. The water coming straight down the crux of this route, filling the hands and feet with puddles, were of a greater concern (late August). Had to veer left (probably off route) and lean back into clip the anchors.

Also, I disagree with Leo, it's a solid 10. I guess we aren't all old-n-nasty strongmen! Aug 25, 2013
Alexey Dynkin
Boulder, CO
Alexey Dynkin   Boulder, CO
FYI, the hanger on the first bolt was spinning freely as of 11/22/14, and the bolt itself looked like it was 1/2 way out. Kind of unnerving, considering the nasty groundfall potential if you blow the move going over the bulge. Nov 24, 2014
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
My first attempt at a 10a lead. First 3/4 or so are very enjoyable ~5.9 climbing, then it gets slabby. The face between the last bolt and the anchors struck me as completely blank, and the rock is too vertical at that point for friction moves. I had to bail onto the route to the right, top out, then scoot back over to the anchors. Nov 22, 2015
Shepido   CO
The first bolt sticks out about 1/4" from the rock with the sleeve of the bolt mushroomed behind it, it could probably used to be replaced. May 15, 2016
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
Had another go at this today and did worse. Ugh.

I don't like the way this route is bolted. There are a number of good solid rest stances, but at each one it seems like the last bolt is below your feet and the next one is out of reach. I'm sure it's someone's idea of a good time making terrifyingly thin slab moves with a 20-foot fall on the line, but it's not mine. Jun 4, 2017