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Routes in The Catslab

Crystal Cat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grizabella S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Cat S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellicle Cats S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
MacCavity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Mistoffeles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mungajerry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Kat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Deuteronomy S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overflow Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy , The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rum Tum Tugger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumple Teaser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skimbleshanks S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Summer Fling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thinning the Herd S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Ann Brandonburg Schroeder
Page Views: 2,667 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Reach the anchors atop Grizabella (5.7 - 95 feet - Route 9 on the topo), the farthest right route on the Catslab proper. Climb up and right along a ledge clipping two bolts with longer draws before climbing up and back left across an arete. Don't panic after the second bolt, your X-ray vision or a judicious glance around the arete will turn up the easy to clip third bolt. The route finally attacks the upper roof in a corner off of sidepulls and jugs. The belayer will be able to hear but not see the climber between the third and eighth bolts. Interesting moves around the arete and roof and fortunately well protected for the not so perfect rock quality - somewhat scaly and brittle in places. Yet, all of the critical holds were solid.

Protection

10 bolts - 2 bolt coldshut anchor - 80 feet from the anchors atop Grizabella. 2 ropes or 200 foot rope needed to descend from Grizabella.

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Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11c
The crux is definetly the roof at about the 6th bolt. Above, the difficulty eases off. A long sling is good on the 3rd bolt. Jun 22, 2016
lytak  
Great route for Catslab! I'm short but didn't feel anything was out of reach. Plenty of key big holds, nice rests and as everyone else attests, nicely bolted. I'm thinking 11a. Mar 16, 2015
DPug
  5.11b
DPug  
  5.11b
Really fun route but doesn't grade doesn't compare to others I've done of the grade. Felt like a soft 11b. Sep 10, 2013
Tony Hosek
  5.11b
Tony Hosek  
  5.11b
Thought was an amazing route if you are ever at Catslab and you want have a fun time do this route. One of the best routes I have done so far at Clear Creek....
The grade is a little steep though it runs more of 11a maybe b for myself. Sep 7, 2013
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
BELAYERS BRING A HELMET!

You're pretty much sitting right under the death zone should your leader kick off somma that chossy scree at the roof, as T-bone Tod Bol did Saturday last. Big chunk, too. Could'a killed. (Thanx, T-bone!)

Otherwise, a fucktastic route--my first ever 5.11 onsight. I got several key hip scrums that almost afforded no-hands rest, right through the roof magic. Plus the jugs (not to mention the sweet, right-where-ya-need-em clips) make for just a swell time. Call it 11b. (Though I could see it pushin' 12 if'n you didn't get the scrums.)

Still, for the initiate 11 climber lookin' for some spice, you could do little better, choss or not. AND you get to be the Cat Slab hero (or hound) since you're there in the spotlight, grunting for all the crag to see. Fantastic.

Oh, and the anchors are lookin' pretty rusted, though they seem to hold my fat 185lbs fine.... Apr 5, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
11c and now adjusted. Oct 21, 2002
richard magill  
5.11c
Fun line!The big hold (i.e. 20 pounds of stone) near the fourth bolt is cracked clear through and is flexing a bit.I put an "X" on it. It can't possibly be removed on a weekend without threatening people at the base below.Someone may want to crowbar or reinforce this soon - it is a nasty accident waiting to happen. Oct 21, 2002
11b/c. Aug 19, 2002
11+ would seem about right to me but then again I'm tall and the hardest move seemed like the long reach over the roof.... Aug 8, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
Seemed 11c when we put it in, but feed back from climbers suggested that 11c was a sand bag - 11+? Aug 1, 2002
This route has great moves and pro, I would say it's worthy of more than one star, but there is some loose rock and a suspect hold just below the fourth bolt. I would also agree that it is probably not 5.12. Very worth doing if you get tired of slopers on the slab below.... Jul 29, 2002
TBD
TBD  
A good route. Suggest unclipping the second bolt after clipping the third to reduce rope drag (easy to reach), also use a longer draw on the third bolt. I thought it was closer to 11c though, perhaps a long reach helps. May 14, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11c
I think we called the upper pitch Rum Tug Tugger (?) just to keep it distinct from the much easier pitch below. When I led it I thought it was 5.12a, but I probably did it wrong, and you are working with some rather large jugs in the roof. Rob Pizem didn't shoot down the 5.12a grade but I would bet that if you asked him now he would agree with 5.11+. I did think that it was harder than 5.11c. Jun 26, 2001
darren
Durango, Colorado
darren   Durango, Colorado
[I don't] think the .12 up above is 12. Quite an awesome route with great position....

-darren Jun 25, 2001