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Routes in The Catslab

Crystal Cat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grizabella S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Cat S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellicle Cats S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
MacCavity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Mistoffeles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mungajerry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Kat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Deuteronomy S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overflow Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy , The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rum Tum Tugger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumple Teaser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skimbleshanks S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Summer Fling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thinning the Herd S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder in '97-'98
Page Views: 11,008 total, 54/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Scramble up a ramp at the far left of the crag and begin below a very large pocket. Friction and jug haul up this well-protected route on amazing quartz crystals and finish on a comfy ledge. Drag a rope for the rappel or use a 60m rope for lowering, have your belayer tie a stopper knot to prevent you from falling past the starting ledge should your rope not reach. 14 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 105'.

Protection

QDs only. Double bolt anchor at the top.
Jason Platt  
 
This line is honestly one of the best moderates in the canyon. It has some of everything. The first half is a fun slab which includes the crux. Then you reach a headwall that leads up to a small roof. Once over the roof, you pull onto an arete that soars above the canyon. The top is just super fun, jug hauling. Once at the top of this long climb, remember to check out that view. Jun 17, 2014
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
  5.7+
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
  5.7+
One of the best 5.8s in the canyon. Mar 20, 2014
Colin Thompson
Seattle, WA
Colin Thompson   Seattle, WA
Be careful with your gear and smaller items as there is a ~4" crack at the base of the route. It is probably 15' deep and it ate my guidebook! Guaranteed I wasn't the first victim of the crack.... Nov 4, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.8+
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.8+
Easier lines can be had be going a little left or right on this route. If you stay on the bolt line, it's a stiff, thin 5.8. The start is much easier if you find the low right side crimp just after pulling the roof. Oct 13, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7
I've climbed 5.5 roofs at the Gunks harder than this roof. It's not even a true roof pull, it's a traverse.

The lower crux can be skirted to the left at 5.7, but going straight up the bolt line is a thin, slabby 5.8. Sep 23, 2013
Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
  5.8
Jon Sinclair   Lafayette, CO
  5.8
This is an excellent climb and very well protected. Given Clear Creek ratings, it's definitely a 5.8... doesn't rate a 9. The crux comes in the first half of the climb and ends with a juggy roof that feels very positive. This climb alone makes the trip to Cat Slab worth the effort. Aug 27, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great and varied climbing, could just be the best line on the wall. Mar 30, 2013
Climbed this two weeks ago. The lead was harder than a 5.8, but top roped it is a 5.8. 70m rope played it safe, it was a great route that was fun for everyone. Recommended climb if you're at Cat Slab! Apr 3, 2012
MilkyTech
  5.8+ PG13
MilkyTech  
  5.8+ PG13
Tough but fun. At least 5.8 and a tough one at that. Long route uses every inch of a 60m rope. In-fact belayer may have to climb up a step so climber can get to lowest jug and untie and downclimb last step. 70m rope is ideal. TIE THE END! Jul 21, 2011
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
  5.8-
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
  5.8-
I just climbed it today, seemed like there were plenty of good holds on the roof. Great climb though; cool features all the way. Jul 16, 2011
Just climbed this route the other day, and it was definitely fun. However, there were some white x's on some of the key holds going over the roof, so I think with that being said, it bumps it up to at least a 9. Anchors at the top look weathered, and the left one was loose. Someone might wanna get on that.... May 30, 2011
Electrikat
Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Electrikat   Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Just climbed this last Friday...nothing saying it was closed or anything blocking the trail... maybe we were unknowingly trespassing? Sep 26, 2010
I agree with all the above comments. Last climbed here 7/21/08 and most of the routes seem in good condition. No one shot at us nor was their evidence of neglect to the hangers or anchors. Good line, some jugs, some crimps, mini-roof, it's got it all. Jul 22, 2008
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
  5.8-
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
  5.8-
Excellent route, especially for first time leaders. Very well protected and do-able with a 60m. Just tie a knot on the end. Jul 17, 2005
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.8-
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.8-
Long slabby climb with some good positive holds on the way up. Be careful pulling on the quartz. Good ledge on the left of the anchors to rig the rappel. Use two ropes. May 3, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7
Very fun moves throughout the climb. Make sure to bring a long sling for the 2nd(?) to last bolt on the far right. Knot your ends if rapping w/ a 60m rope. Jan 18, 2004
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
All the bolts were good and the route is excellent. I think the 5.8 grade is a little stiff though. Careful with a 60m rope on the rap down. If you stay to the left you should be fine. . .but it was close! I didn't get shot, nor did I fall. But there were some lively little billies drinking beer by the "No Trespassing" signs. Jun 14, 2002
You only have to be 50 feet from the center line of the road to shoot a firearm, or weapon. Not very far huh. Brett Boyd Mar 19, 2002
Does anyone know what the regulations are for shooting weapons in the canyon? --In general. I understand that the area near Catslab is privately owned--so open season I guess; but I'm wondering about the meander on the North side of Tunnel 6 and the parking area for the Wall of the 90's. I've heard many shots near tunnel 6 and seen a bunch of spent shotgun shells and bullet casings. Also, a couple weekends ago I was on Hot Stuff when a couple archers showed up and spent a good hour shooting foam targets with compound bows right in the parking area--shooting towards the base of the rock. They seemed skilled and I didn't think it possible for a deflected arrow to reach us, high above, but still: a little unsettling. Mar 18, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Well, we have a problem here. On 8/7/01 Nevada Montagu and I replaced this anchor. Like the third bolt on this route, the anchor on the left side had been shot. The bullet track is evident on the bottom side of the hanger, the rock surrounding the bolt blown completely away. This bolt would have possible held body weight, possibly not. Once again, the bullet trajectory suggests, to my novice eye, being fired on the horrizontal (line up the bullet track on the hanger with the impact site on the rock). A good vantage point would be from across the creek, on the water pipe line, and this is what the alignment points to. The pipe line is 400 yards from impact and on the level. Completely ripping through a stainless steel hanger from 400 yards would indicate a rifle with .223 or .222 power, and this is consistent with the hole in the hanger from the the third clip. This would indicate a high powered hunting rifle with telescopic sighting since the hangers are completely invisible from even much shorter distances. Importantly, Catslab is privately owned. The owner lives in New York and has slated the area for a 24 unit housing development; he would be only too happy to shut down the climbing. Furthermore, there is a resident squatter living around the bend from Catslab, who spent considerable time watching us climb, he may or may not be suspect. Climbers need to be aware that hangers and anchors may be unsound on any route on Catslab. We also need to address the problem of shooting at the protection system for these, and perhaps other, climbing routes. However, simply running to the police is likely to get the crag shut down permanently. If you have a good idea that might help solve this problem, send it in. Aug 7, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I'll try to get this repaired ASAP. When we ran the route a week ago to replace the shot hanger, I did not (sic) notice anything wrong at the top. The anchor has always been bomb proof, so perhaps more vandalism has been afoot. Aug 6, 2001
I just did this route as a warm up yesterday and upon reaching the anchor, I noticed that the left hand bolt has lost rock around its left side. There is about 1 inch of the shaft exposed. I don't know if the rock was broken off by a bullet, hammer or by itself. Nevertheless, it should be inspected by the folks who know the area the best. Just thought you should know. Aug 5, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Bit of warning: about two weeks ago, Mark Rolofson informed that bolt three on this route had been cut but not removed. I replaced this hanger on 7/26/2001. The hanger was not cut, it had been shot through with a .22 caliber rifle. So the warning here is that some of the folks shooting from across the creek also shoot at the climbing routes. Watch out, this hanger would never have held a fall. Jul 27, 2001