Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,362 total · 20/month
Shared By: ac on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details

Description

This is a cool, little trad (?) route at Catslab. It is worth doing, maybe, if you're bored of all those bolt routes. There are various starts to an obvious, clean, left-facing corner with occasional shrubbery ~60' left of Skimbleshanks. Beware of rubble on the ledge below last 10' step. It has pretty clean rock and bomber gear. More cleaning and it'd be a great beginner trad lead?

Protection

Standard rack to #2 Camalot.

Photos

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I may have got the FA for this one, I did it on aid about a year ago, it looked like it would be a good trad route especially for beginners. The shrubs were pretty bad and I had to clear a bit, but like mentioned before, if cleaned more, it could be a pretty nice route. I was solo at the time and topped out near the start of the 5.8 Skimbleshanks. Have fun. P.S. some bouldering and possible other routes can be found downhill and down river. Peace! Oct 27, 2005
ac
  5.5
ac  
  5.5
I free soloed this ~5-6 yrs ago and saw chalk on it then. I agree that with a little more cleaning it would make a good beginner lead. Oct 29, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8 PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8 PG13
This line continues up ~120' before it joins Skimbleshanks. The upper face is a bit harder, likely 5.8 PG-13/R before you gain the crack. At the horizontal, you traverse right, but test the holds there. Watch out for rope drag!

Oh yeah, that ledge at ~60' up, it apparently collects rocks at regular intervals, so be careful. We cleared probably 50-60 off it. Oct 17, 2011
First Track Jack
Evergreen, CO
 
First Track Jack   Evergreen, CO
 
Decided to check this out today¬Ö. Agree, that is is a great beginner trad route, easy gear, easy moves, a little vegetated, and loose rock on top ledges. Descent is to downclimb via Shimbleshanks ascent. Oct 3, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
This is a good, easy route. It now has bolt anchors for descent before the ledge with rubble. It is a little shorter now that it has these anchors, but descent is now easy. Who put the bolts in? Jun 11, 2015
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.5
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.5
Climbed this last night. Two small areas of shrubbery but otherwise a pretty clean route. Was on the lookout for rubble and loose rock but never came across any. Would make a good beginner trad route as it takes gear really well and has good stances all the way to the top. 24" runners kept a straight line to the anchors.

Hiking out we noticed three new bolted lines around the corner to the left of this route about 30 feet uphill. They are short and look easy-moderate. Does anyone know anything about these lines? Oct 8, 2016
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
  5.6
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
  5.6
Very enjoyable route for trad noobs like me, and since it's the only gear route at Catslab, no one is ever on it. Placed orange, yellow, purple, and green Totems, and two medium-sized nuts. Jun 4, 2017