All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Infirmary Slabs > Lower Infirmary Slabs

Morning Oyster

Name: Morning Oyster
Rating: 1.1

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Look Ma No Hands TR
	Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Morning Oyster T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Owner Beware T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, TR
GPS:	40.18732, -105.33304
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,666 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Jim Cormier on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Climbing Puerto Rico: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed. Details

Per Matt B: this entire area (including Upper Infirmary Slabs) is on private property. Check USFS maps, and you'll see a rectangular chunk of private property just off the road at the beginning of Coffin Top Gulch. This unfortunately includes the beginning of the Coffintop Trail as well. As it stands, the landowner does not want climbers on his property, so these crags should be avoided.

Description

This is the easiest line so far on this formation.

Per JF M: the easiest line on the formation, this route probably isn't for a new leader at the grade. After clipping the solitary first bolt, there are some touchy moves, then it's (possibly) run out over a tricky-to-protect, shallow crack before reaching easier ground. Traverse left along the rounded shelf to the shared anchors (again, it is fairly runout).

Protection

Trad protection up to 2.5", the route can also be top roped from 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Per JF M: bring one draw for the sole bolt. A questionable #0 Friend (~BD #0.3 or c3 #2) and a medium offset brassie (#6 DMM) "protect" the middle section. After that, a #0.5 Friend (~BD 0.4) fits nicely into a crack before the run to the anchor. Perhaps an offset cam (Metolius blue/yellow?) could be useful in place of the #0 Friend.