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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands TR
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Oyster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: old TR bolts added by Eric Sorenson, Feb. 2008
Page Views: 1,175 total, 10/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Mar 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

The crux is passing the first bolt. After you make the move, the climb is pretty easy the rest of the way. Easy to TR as the line is directly below the right set of top-anchor bolts (Plague Boys anchor). Also a safe lead if you bring the optional cam for the top, the best protected climb here.

Two stars is compared to the other climbs on this cliff all of which seem be a bit more runout and indirect.

Location

This is the most obvious (to me) line on the wall. When you arrive at the cliff bottom, the route rises directly above you. It is located right of "Acts of Contrition" and left of "Plague Boys". It shares an anchor with "Plague Boys".

Protection

Three bolts and a 1" cam for the overlap at the top. If you are confident, the cam could be optional.

Photos

Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.10c R
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.10c R
2 big, loose plates -- looser than last year. These are perfectly placed and shaped to slice your rope. I would avoid this one until they fall. Jun 15, 2013
Austin Black
  5.9
Austin Black  
  5.9
It was a little bit sketchy clipping the first bolt. I had to cheat and move over to the left of the route where there are some good hand holds. I think that is why it is rated .10a. The rest of the climb felt fairly easy compared to the move needed for the first clip. Pretty safe climbing after that. Bolts looked fairly new. I would agree with the 1" cam for the roof right below the chains. Happy climbing! Mar 16, 2013
goatboywonder Patrick  
  5.10c
Pretty fun little route. The crux was desperate for me, but you have a bolt right there. I barely managed it by going left and using a high undercling. Short people may want a stick clip for the first bolt. Definitely recommend a 1" cam for the roof. Apr 23, 2012
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
Climbed this yesterday. The first bolt is a stretch, look for good feet and the jug. Cruise after that. Also a bit of runout past the third bolt, and the rock has been exfoliating. Jun 23, 2011
ShawnT  
This climb is not .10a -- more like .10c/d with a committing 15 feet to the first clip. Oct 2, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
 
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
 
It may be a height dependent crux. By moving slightly right of the first bolt, there is a key crimp that allows for a long reach to the big ledge/jug above. May 27, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
I wonder if some small footholds have broken off in the beginning of this route; the rock is also slippery making the first moves feel desperate if you're trying to smear. I was able to on-site Cyberchondrial Paranoia (listed as 5.10d) and Panic in the Grey Room (5.10a) but couldn't pull the beginning moves here. The remainder of this climb is pretty easy. Apr 6, 2008