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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands TR
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Oyster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,503 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a slab/face route. It is a definite sandbag.

Per JFM: climb a slab to the relatively high first bolt, then angle right of the second bolt. Follow the rounded ribs to the left-leaning corner. Finish with the shared anchor bolts after a short roof move.

Protection

Quickdraws for the bolts, the route can be toproped from the 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Per JFM: bring two draws for the bolts. You may want a yellow Metolius (#2) for in between the bolts. Friends #1.5 to #2 (~BD #0.75) protect the the crack in the corner. There is a shared two bolt anchor with chains. You can get TR access up and around the left side of the slabs.

Photos

Top roped this climb going up the slab route between the Plague Boys bolts and the Mentally Infirm bolts. Stay out of the crack on the right and go straight for the top. Oct 15, 2008
Toshia Leonhardt
Arvada, CO
Toshia Leonhardt   Arvada, CO
Major sandbag, more like 5.8c or 5.9 if you ask me. Sep 19, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
A decent route; the harder moves are the slabby moves down low. Apr 6, 2008
Chris Swope
Greeley, co
 
Chris Swope   Greeley, co
 
Did this climb for the second time the other day. I would say this is more of a one move wonder. Going right of the bolts after the .7 crux makes the rest of the climb go at about a 5.5-5.6 going straight up the line felt more along the lines of 10a/b. The finish though is a fun little lieback to the chains. Would definitely recommend doing it the more sporty way as the bolt placement is pretty good. Apr 24, 2005
Yeow, can't understand all the bombs being thrown at the Lower Infirmary routes. Absolutely nothing wrong with them - easy to TR, challenging (sandbagged) for the grade. Feb 7, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
The 5.10 line Paul mentioned is excellent. Sep 12, 2003
5.7 if you climb right of the bolts (where the features are).5.10 if you try to climb up the bolts on the slab.Another 2 Star SSV ultra-sandbag classic slab. Jul 15, 2003
Not sure why you're rating all these routes on Lower Infirmary so poorly. They are super easy to top rope and pretty fun routes. Plague Boys was my first lead on a climb in like 6 years, and while it scared the crap out of me at the time, I still wouldn't rate it higher than a 5.7. The 5.9 route to the left only has one 5.9 move on it (and it probably is harder than 5.9). Still and all, these climbs are fun, although there are better routes up above on the upper infirmary slabs.

MK Sep 11, 2002