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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands TR
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Oyster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Tom Pietrykowski
Page Views: 558 total, 3/month
Shared By: Petro on Aug 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

No hands are required for this one. If I may take the liberty to establish a new rating system:

NH1 - requires simple feet only. NH2 - requires knees for balance. NH3 - advanced no-hands technique (chin bars, chest smears, toe hooks, etc...).

This route has the same start as Acts of Contrition, use the ledge system directly below the bolts to gain the ledge about 6 feet off the ground. Don't forget to chalk up your hands for the opening moves. The crux move is the dynamic traverse to the ledge on the right (tricky and fun). Once you have gained the ledge, use the gully for the next 3/4 of the climb. Next, climb left out of the gully and onto the face towards the two bolt anchor. Enjoy.

Protection

Use the two bolt anchor from Acts of Contrition.

Photos

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Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
 
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
 
Super fun. May 12, 2012
I chalked up my feet and climbed this dynamically using only my hands although I used opposed jowel and earlobe jams at one point. Also I was wearing a C4 tube top so I was able to get nice beer gut smears as well. I hope that's not considered aid. Mar 4, 2003
What are you talking about?? Mar 4, 2003
Crusty  
This changes everything! Mar 4, 2003