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Routes in Anarchy Wall

Above All Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anarchitect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anarchy Rules S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anarchy in the UK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackpot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Halloween S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazardous Waste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maestro S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Matriarch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Wrench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Question Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 3,378 total, 17/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow Presto to the alcove. Reach up out right for the fifth clip, then work up sloping rounded sidepulls and underclings until the bolt is at your feet and you realize there's no way to let go. Stare at the slot overhead, then launch a committing right-hand throw for a jam. Stick the jam or go for an exciting ride. Pull up past the last bolt onto a sloping ledge, then work some sidepulls on the left to stand up and drop the rope in the hooks.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with 1/2" open coldshuts.

Photos

Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
VERY nice patch, Jay. Much appreciated that you took the extra time to do so. There is no reason that people need to leave exposed bolt remnants, and thank you for your time and effort doing things that not all of us have the skill, knowledge, or equipment to do.

Then there is the group that has all that but is just too lazy to do the work without the reward of the FA, too. May 26, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12+
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12+
I replaced the fourth bolt on Maestro today, it was getting rusty and had started to pull away from the wall a little bit and the hanger was spinning. Thinking it was an old 1/4" Rawl bolt, I thought I would just yank it out, drill out the hole and install a 3/8" x 3" SS Powers wedge bolt. Simple, right? Well two hours of crowbarring, hammering, and prying later had only pulled the bolt out apx. 1/4"! Not only that, but it was a 3/8" bolt, not a 1/4"! My friends on the ground thought this was hilarious, commenting that maybe the bolt didn't need to be replaced after all! I eventually admitted defeat and chopped the bolt with a hacksaw blade, drilled a new hole and patched the old one.

This gave me a whole new appreciation for those who replace old hardware so we can all have a safe climbing experience. Thanks to everyone who puts in the time - and do any of you have any advice for coaxing out a stubborn bolt? I could certainly use a little wisdom thrown my way on this one, and maybe a little on patching holes, too.





May 25, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12+
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12+
Damn, sweet route! The Maestro start is fun as always, but the real gold of this route is leaving the alcove and trying to make it to the ledge. The crux has it all: power, balance, technique, and a bit of try-hard! Excited to get back to this one and give it hell. May 21, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
You're just burly, admit it. Mar 17, 2010
MauryB
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Great route, 12d is quuuuiiiiite a stretch, I would think 12b, especially in comparison to Anarchitect next door. But who cares, still super fun all numbers aside. Mar 17, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
"Very fun crux", aka slope-fest-from-hell...the undercling move is cool. May 10, 2002
A great overhanging line with a committing and very fun crux - a must do! May 10, 2002
Here is a slopefest if I have ever tried one. I thought this route was sweet. Fun moves up to the alcove (presto start) then an improbable sequence on slopers that do not want to let you hang on to them. The left hand undercling before the "hand jam" throw makes you laugh when you realize that one can actually use this hold. I thought the route had more resting opportunities than Anarchitect, but the difficulty of the crux may be equal or harder than the technical crux on Anarchitect. Great route, well worth the effort. Save this one for a cool day though, any extra "grease factor" will definitely increase the grade!

Feb 25, 2002