Type: Sport, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Kurt Smith, 1990
Page Views: 2,014 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

45 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Two tricky cruxes, one is very thin and balancy while the other is powerful and bouldery. A good route but the second clip can be intimidating.


6 bolts, 2 coldshuts anchors. Difficult to clip the second bolt.


Also a little sketchy going for the anchor. Look for holds behind the lip before you commit to pulling up slack. It looks like you could just about hit the deck if you fell there. Jul 12, 2001
Nate Weitzel
Nate Weitzel  
I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating. Sep 22, 2001
My favorite route on this end of the cliff -- technical and surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb. A little intimidating at the top, but if you find the good holds right of the anchors you'll be fine. Doesn't this grade (and its neighbor's) seem a touch light when to compared to Anarchitect? Maybe it's my style (I love crimps, hate dynos and slopers) but this feels like 12a, while Anarchitect seems solid for 12d. Nov 9, 2001
Nate Weitzel
Nate Weitzel  
Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-. Nov 10, 2001
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
Is this route #4 in the route Photo? May 29, 2007
This used to be one of my favorite routes on this crag, but since someone took it upon themselves to add two additional bolts; it's just another clip-up. Nov 11, 2007
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
I did not enjoy the 1st 3 bolts - was very hard and awkward. The second half, however, was fantastic. So a fun link up is the 1st three of Power Trip and the last few of UK. Aug 7, 2017