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Routes in Anarchy Wall

Above All Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anarchitect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anarchy Rules S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anarchy in the UK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackpot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Halloween S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazardous Waste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maestro S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Matriarch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Wrench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Question Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kurt Smith, 1990
Page Views: 1,789 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Two tricky cruxes, one is very thin and balancy while the other is powerful and bouldery. A good route but the second clip can be intimidating.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 coldshuts anchors. Difficult to clip the second bolt.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
 
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
 
I did not enjoy the 1st 3 bolts - was very hard and awkward. The second half, however, was fantastic. So a fun link up is the 1st three of Power Trip and the last few of UK. Aug 7, 2017
This used to be one of my favorite routes on this crag, but since someone took it upon themselves to add two additional bolts; it's just another clip-up. Nov 11, 2007
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.12b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.12b
Is this route #4 in the route Photo? May 29, 2007
Nate Weitzel  
 
Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-. Nov 10, 2001
My favorite route on this end of the cliff -- technical and surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb. A little intimidating at the top, but if you find the good holds right of the anchors you'll be fine. Doesn't this grade (and its neighbor's) seem a touch light when to compared to Anarchitect? Maybe it's my style (I love crimps, hate dynos and slopers) but this feels like 12a, while Anarchitect seems solid for 12d. Nov 9, 2001
Nate Weitzel  
 
I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating. Sep 22, 2001
Also a little sketchy going for the anchor. Look for holds behind the lip before you commit to pulling up slack. It looks like you could just about hit the deck if you fell there. Jul 12, 2001