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Routes in Anarchy Wall

Above All Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anarchitect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anarchy Rules S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anarchy in the UK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackpot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Halloween S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazardous Waste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maestro S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Matriarch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Wrench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Question Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 2,248 total, 11/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This ascends a short, crimpy wall with a long reach off an undercling. It is fun climbing--many will feel it to be easier than advertised, but others will be put off by the size of the holds. Do it in July if it still feels too easy.

Protection

4 bolts. If you fall off close to the second bolt, you could hit the big ledge below.

Per Chris. T.: the second bolt needs to be replaced. The stud is quite loose in its hole.

Photos

Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13a
Thanks for the heads up, Chris, but you should contact the government about this. It is now their job to handle.

You can email them here. Apr 3, 2016
Chris. T.  
 
The second bolt needs to be replaced as of 4/2/16. The stud is quite loose in its hole. Apr 3, 2016
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar
 
Super thin and body-position specific. Worked this route for over a year trying to figure out the beta. Finally put it all together today; cold temps and wind definitely helped. Also I found clipping the 3rd bolt on the route to be pretty safe. I took multiple falls from the holds right at the 3rd bolt, and I never decked. Nov 22, 2014
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13a
Cool little route, I kept thinking I would send it quick because it was so short and then spent plenty of time falling on a variety of different moves. Like Steve said, very subtle body positioning, the time I did it felt much easier than previous attempts; a slight shift in the hips made it all come together.

You don't need a stick clip for this one, you can clip the first two bolts from the first hold, and if you want you can clip up three from the second bolt. Jan 10, 2013
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
Fun and THIN. Enjoyable for a party trick of a route. Oct 17, 2012
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13a
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13a
I don't think any of the clips are particularly tough or dangerous. At 5'9", I can get the first two with my feet on the good blocks down low. You have jugs for the third and fourth bolts, and it's maybe 11+/12- climbing anyway. Not trying to be that internet tough guy but rather encourage people to try this one.

...now if I could just pull all the moves.

Edit: after finally putting this thing together, I would add that it's a very subtle route. Very slight changes in body position or momentum made the crux moves anywhere from impossible to very doable. I learned a lot on this one. Sep 25, 2012
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary. Aug 10, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Call me a coward but after redpointing this the first time, I have always done it with the first 3 clipped. I advise anyone trying it to have a very attentive belayer as the ledge looks unfriendly. Jul 30, 2001