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Routes in Anarchy Wall

Above All Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anarchitect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anarchy Rules S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anarchy in the UK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackpot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Halloween S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazardous Waste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maestro S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Matriarch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Wrench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Question Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Alan Nelson/Pete Steres, 1990
Page Views: 2,066 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the warm-up route for the wall. There are a variety of sequences for the crux, some make it significantly harder. It is not the best route on the wall but a decent route with a few interesting moves.

Protection

Four bolts, two bolt (chains) anchor. The first two bolts of the route have old, thin loooking hangers, however when the climbing gets hard, the bolts get better.

Photos

Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
 
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
 
There is a decent kneebar in the left side of the roof that works well for longer legged folks and makes the crux exit a good bit easier if executed properly. Oct 6, 2016
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11d
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11d
The third bolt on this should probably be replaced, it's coming out of the wall 1/4 inch or so. First one could also use it, but not as badly. Jun 11, 2013
iancevans
  5.11d
iancevans  
  5.11d
A fine climb. If you're a solid 12 climber, it's an excellent warm-up. Gets harder as you get higher, so your muscles don't get shocked right off the deck. Nov 28, 2009
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
Agree with Nate, love this climb, there are no great warm-ups on this crag, that kept me away for awhile and rightly so, but if you want to be a high 11 or 12 climber what a great crag. Some very interesting learning to be had if you are breaking into the high 11 to 12 range. Once you figure the beta this warm-up route climbs well, with really fun moves, without the right beta, it's an awkward, burly feeling climb. Oct 28, 2009
Really fun! Lots of climbing packed into a fairly short route.As for the warmup issue - there really aren't any warmups at this crag. Apr 1, 2004
Having done every route on this end of the crag now, I agree with the coward. It's not a great warm-up. In fact, it doesn't seem any easier than the 12s. But maybe that's because I always end up campusing the last moves! Nov 9, 2001
Nate Weitzel  
 
Based on your wingspan you may be average, although if one looks at your climbing resume, it would be difficult to assign the words average to any aspect f your climbing. Aug 9, 2001
Nate Weitzel  
 
Alan:

The horn beta is what I use, and that is why it feels easier since I can skip those nasty little crimps. I hated the route until I figured this beta out!

Aug 8, 2001
Nate Weitzel  
 
I would have to disagree about the warm up. This route can be done with good moves, no awkwardness, if the correct beta sequence is discovered. If you are pulling a super hard move at the end, keep thinking because you are using the incorrect holds. Pretty much everything up there is chalked, but that doesn't mean you should use all of those holds!!! Monkey Wrench on the other hand is purely an awkward and weird route. Jul 13, 2001
Terrible warm-up. Awkward climbing to a hard one-move crux. Suck it up and do Monkey Wrench which has about three real sloper moves and is more even in difficulty Jul 12, 2001