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Routes in Anarchy Wall

Above All Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anarchitect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anarchy Rules S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anarchy in the UK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackpot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Halloween S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazardous Waste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maestro S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Matriarch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Wrench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Question Authority S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 4,527 total, 22/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good, hard route. The moves are sustained and non-positive. Once you start moving, keep climbing and it will eventually get better (at the anchors!!!). Overall, a good challenge.

Protection

5 bolts/ 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12b
I had forgotten how fun and beta-intensive this route is. BETA ALERT: for moving above the second bolt, get a very high right foot (the flat incut that you toss left hand to early on) while your hands are still low/on positive holds. Go right hand to sloper - bump into side pull and then MATCH feet and flag right foot out to combat the barn door while going left hand to the flake. Prior to matching feet, I was stumped. Aug 7, 2017
Luke Childers
  5.12b
Luke Childers  
  5.12b
Hey now I cut my teeth in the Gunks for 15 years! This things is a 5.8- out there!! Lol Aug 28, 2013
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12b
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12b
11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!! Jan 17, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12b
I've never had soo much fun on such a short route. Good crimps and mild slopers on a steep face with great movement.... Get ON It. Apr 9, 2009
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Packs a punch like everything else on this wall. Jul 26, 2005
jonah  
I agree this feels about 11d if you are insecure and downrating climbs makes you feel better about yourself. Jun 1, 2003
Sweet powerful crimps, jugs, and slopers. You've got to believe. Go with the flow and it weighs in around .11d. May 25, 2002
I DISAGREE WITH NATE THAT THE HOLDS ARE NON-POSITIVE, TAKE A BRUSH TO THEM, JUST FIND THE BITE, ITS THERE. Sep 25, 2001