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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest

Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hyperspuds T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock 1989
Page Views: 5,252 total, 32/month
Shared By: John Bradford on May 31, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Description

A fantastic route, long and sustained with thin face moves and an airy finish. Start in the crack and work up right onto the face. This route is located on the Spud Wall, and is directly across from the trail junction between the East face of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire. Two ropes to get down.

Protection

15 bolts to chain anchors. A large camming device can help protect the opening moves. Use a long runner.

Photos

Amylee T
Flagastaff, AZ
 
Amylee T   Flagastaff, AZ
 
i think this line is harder than sudden pleasure. outstanding climbing that makes you thing almost the whole way up. last quarter it eases up a lot, but the whole thing is enjoyable and well worth your time. Jul 6, 2016
David Champion
Centennial, CO
  5.11a
David Champion   Centennial, CO
  5.11a
Tony, seems you and I were in the City at the same time. In fact we climbed Redtail on Tuesday (6/14), looks like ~2 days before you did? Hard to believe we didn’t run into you at some point during the week.

Last time I did Redtail was in 2009, almost 7 years to the day prior, and I recall being pretty darned impressed with the line. But after 7 years, and many, many routes, it seems I’d relegated that recollection to the dustbin of my memory. Getting on it again brought it all back, though. I think Redtail may be the best bolted line I’ve done. Ever.

Interesting how climbers’ tastes differ.

Did you get on She’s the Bosch? We jumped on it first thing Thursday, after they lifted the raptor closure. Bingham gives both routes 4 stars, his max. She’s the Bosch is undeniably a great line, but I find Redtail much more special. Again, personal opinion. There’s just something about that line—maybe it’s the length, the sustained difficulty, the position, the variety of techniques—that makes it so special for me.

Glad you got a chance to enjoy it, Tony. As well as some other City classics I see from your comments. Jun 19, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated. Jun 16, 2016
Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
I was able to rappel and clean down to where I was level with the anchors on Sudden Pleasure, move over to it and pull the rope and then rappel from it and then clean the rest of my draws from Redtail with a 60mm. It requires just a bit of effort towards the bottom to move rightward to grab the last few draws. Sep 27, 2014
80m rope once again proves to be the ticket at the city. 42 meter pitch, down easily with rope stretch. Aug 25, 2014
Kevin Volkening
  5.11a/b
Kevin Volkening  
  5.11a/b
Agree with the inconsistent nature of the climb, still fun! Dont bother with the suggestion of a piece for the opening moves Jun 6, 2011
ktmt
Missoula, MT
  5.11a/b
ktmt   Missoula, MT
  5.11a/b
Highly recommend! I thought this was stiffer than Sudden Pleasure, which seems barely 5.11, whereas this climb, at lest onsight, felt solid for the grade in a couple of places. The moderate climbing in the upper half is cruise city, absolutely enjoyable.

Can descend with one rope by belaying second up, then rapping to Sudden Pleasure anchors and a second rap to the ground. Works great for firing a bonus lap on Sudden Pleasure. Nov 15, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Great route. I found the climbing too inconsistent (the whole top third is only 5.9) to rate this "classic", but still a great route. Aug 28, 2008
two thumbs up!! Jul 19, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11a
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11a
best 5.11 clip-up at the city Jan 29, 2006
I sat and watched someone climb that from Morning Glory, and Redtail looked a blast. Oct 13, 2005