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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest

Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hyperspuds T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham and Pokey Amory 1987
Page Views: 970 total, 11/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 21, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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16 Opinions

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Description

This pumpy route is slightly harder than its classy neighbors. (Redtail and Sudden Pleasure) These three classics would make a great three star morning in the shade. The cruxes are well protected with bolts and gear, but they are still mentally taxing since you are climbing liebacks on the bottom half of the route.

Watch out for the prairie falcon in the nest just right of the route. You could add a letter grade, if you are getting dive bombed at the crux.

Location

Hyperspuds is located about 50ft to the right of Redtail.

Protection

4 bolts, 0.4&0.75 camalot, 2-3 green aliens/red C3, option long sling for horn tie-off

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Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11c
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11c
Definitely excellent, definitely sustained, definitely beautiful and definitely pushing 11c when compared to Redtail. Loved it. Anchors are currently sketchy tat that I probably shouldn't have rapped off of. Jun 14, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
The gear recommendations are spot on (blue metolius works in lieu of Aliens), as is the above comment regarding the grade. This thing is great but hard, especially when compared to routes of a similar grade.

The anchors are in need of some TLC. They are bolts with webbing, some of which is severely sun bleached. I didn't have any extra with me at the time - c'est la vie. Bring some with you.

One of my favorite 11's in the whole city. Dec 18, 2014
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
 
Amazing route!! Bold, sustained, simply brilliant! Unlike anything I’ve climbed at the city. As far as the grade… I’ll just say that it’s by far the hardest “11b” Ive climbed at the city. Enjoy! Oct 24, 2014