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Seasonal Employment
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 17
votes
Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest
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Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hyperspuds T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bingham, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,360 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Volkening on Jun 7, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Start up an easy pillar / corner to a wide crack on the right side of a large right facing dihedral. The crack itself is not actually in the back of the dihedral but more on the right face of the dihedral. Climb the wide crack to reach a large ledge located atop the left wall of the starting dihedral. Using large holds transfer out of the start dihedral to gain the ledge. Take a depth breath and stare up at the imposing right facing corner above sporting 4 bolts. Using a mix of THIN face holds on the right side of the corner and the extremely tight crack in the back of the corner, balance your way the the top the feature. Exit the right side of the corner at it's top and climb the easy terrain above for a substantial distance with no pro to a chained anchor.
Location
Starts behind rose bushes 5-10 feet left of the Sudden Pleasure pillar in a large right facing corner.
Protection
Bring several 3" to 4" cams for the bottom wide crack, small nuts (brassies) for the upper corner before the bolts, 4 draws for the 4 bolts, a 1.5" to 2" piece to protect a long run out between bolts (#1 BD Camalot), and a small yellow something for exiting the corner (alien, metolius, or C3).
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