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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest

Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hyperspuds T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jay Goodwin, early 1980's
Page Views: 166 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brian B Ballard on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious Right facing corner on the south end of the west side of Rabbit Rock. It is a rather interesting mountaineering type of route that encourages creativity.

P1: Climb the corner left of redtail (11a) cross redtail short of the top of the corner to the large ledge. Belay at the base of the main corner.

P2: Follow the corner (slightly dirty and continue straight up in or out of the crack as you please. At the end of the crack continue just right of the large roof(chimney) until you are comfortable to scramble on.

Location

Approach:
On the south end of rabbit rock this route starts just to the left of popular redtail (5.11) in a wide right facing corner. To get there follow the trail between parking lot rock and morning glory spire the south end of rabbit rock should be just ahead follow a path up a short slab to the base of the route.

Descent:
Walk off to the north end of the rock or rappel from anchors near north end. We found some on NE side and came up a few feet short with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard Trad Rack to 4". Long runners for the first pitch and extra large cams (1"-4") are helpful. Gear Anchors.

Photos

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SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
This was a fun adventure. When I got up to the second pitch the start did not look very good but turned out to be a lot of fun. Instead of jamming wide hands in the crack I climbed the steep patina to the left and came back to the crack to perfect hands. Lots of fun options. We slung a rock formation and did a short rappel off the top to the upper anchor of the 11d 2 pitch arĂȘte in the guide book so we only had about a 100 yards of hiking along the base of the cliff to our packs. If you rappel of the north east down road kill take your approach shoes to get back to the packs. A number 4 camalot will work but a number 5 would fit better as your big piece on both pitches. Oct 2, 2015
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
Once you rap off the northeast side I would recommend not going around the south end back to the base. Sep 17, 2014