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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest

Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hyperspuds T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dan Sperlock 1980's
Page Views: 98 total · 1/month
Shared By: bheller on May 19, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is a challenging and worthy route!
Crux comes just below the top, where you have two option: tweak your fingers into flared blue tcu sized jams or slap out to the arete just left of the crack for an exciting and athletic finish. Of course, those with large digits only have the later option. You don't really need tape, as Binghams guide suggests- its not that rough. This thing feels a hell of a lot longer than 40 feet after you've climbed it!

Location

The crack that essentially shares the start with redtail, but then leans to the right.

Protection

cams- at least a full run- blue tcu's to a big hand piece. Also bring a lot of extra draws to finish on Redtail (or Seasonal employment, though less desireable because its anchor is so far out left). Roughleg has no anchor, but could use one. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off of Redtail

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zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Gave this rig a go and boy does it pack a punch...esp for only being 40ish ft. Gear was doubles of .5,.75 and singles from 1-4 camalot. felt that actually exiting the ow into the hand crack was quite committing and for sure exiting the last 8 ft or so is butt puckering good time. I felt that tape helped, but hell Im no crack climber and a bit of a weenie when shoving my mits in hard granite.
GREAT ROUTE!!!!! and MUCH overlooked when at Rabbit Rock. Anchors would be supreme....Brad? Or we could all just get 2 pitches of great climbing done. Mar 22, 2015