[Hide Comment] I sat and watched someone climb that from Morning Glory, and Redtail looked a blast. Oct 13, 2005

[Hide Comment] best 5.11 clip-up at the city Jan 29, 2006

[Hide Comment] two thumbs up!! Jul 19, 2006

[Hide Comment] Great route. I found the climbing too inconsistent (the whole top third is only 5.9) to rate this "classic", but still a great route. Aug 28, 2008

[Hide Comment] Highly recommend! I thought this was stiffer than Sudden Pleasure, which seems barely 5.11, whereas this climb, at lest onsight, felt solid for the grade in a couple of places. The moderate climbing in the upper half is cruise city, absolutely enjoyable.

Can descend with one rope by belaying second up, then rapping to Sudden Pleasure anchors and a second rap to the ground. Works great for firing a bonus lap on Sudden Pleasure. Nov 15, 2008

[Hide Comment] Agree with the inconsistent nature of the climb, still fun! Dont bother with the suggestion of a piece for the opening moves Jun 6, 2011

[Hide Comment] 80m rope once again proves to be the ticket at the city. 42 meter pitch, down easily with rope stretch. Aug 25, 2014

[Hide Comment] I was able to rappel and clean down to where I was level with the anchors on Sudden Pleasure, move over to it and pull the rope and then rappel from it and then clean the rest of my draws from Redtail with a 60mm. It requires just a bit of effort towards the bottom to move rightward to grab the last few draws. Sep 27, 2014

[Hide Comment] Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated. Jun 16, 2016

[Hide Comment] Tony, seems you and I were in the City at the same time. In fact we climbed Redtail on Tuesday (6/14), looks like ~2 days before you did? Hard to believe we didn’t run into you at some point during the week.

Last time I did Redtail was in 2009, almost 7 years to the day prior, and I recall being pretty darned impressed with the line. But after 7 years, and many, many routes, it seems I’d relegated that recollection to the dustbin of my memory. Getting on it again brought it all back, though. I think Redtail may be the best bolted line I’ve done. Ever.

Interesting how climbers’ tastes differ.

Did you get on She’s the Bosch? We jumped on it first thing Thursday, after they lifted the raptor closure. Bingham gives both routes 4 stars, his max. She’s the Bosch is undeniably a great line, but I find Redtail much more special. Again, personal opinion. There’s just something about that line—maybe it’s the length, the sustained difficulty, the position, the variety of techniques—that makes it so special for me.

Glad you got a chance to enjoy it, Tony. As well as some other City classics I see from your comments. Jun 19, 2016

[Hide Comment] i think this line is harder than sudden pleasure. outstanding climbing that makes you thing almost the whole way up. last quarter it eases up a lot, but the whole thing is enjoyable and well worth your time. Jul 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] 17 bolts (not 15) to chain anchors at a comfortable stance. First and second bolts can be stick clipped. Some long runners are helpful. 80 meter rope will BARELY get you to the ground (with some stretch). Always tie your ends. Jun 18, 2018

[Hide Comment] I found the start to be really difficult and insecure. (I eventually pulled through on draws) Not sure if I was doing something wrong. Jun 13, 2020

[Hide Comment] Redtail has some incredible, thoughtful movement all throughout and a stellar, airy view of the City. One of the best I tried at the City.

If you only have a 70m, lowering from Redtail will drop you off at another pair of chains that you can use to belay a follower and then rap from. Tie knots in your rope if doing this as these chains are still 30 ft up. Jul 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] Rebolted by ASCA volunteers 9/6/2021. Hardware isn't free, make a donation safeclimbing.org/donate if you prefer clipping bomber bolts. Sep 24, 2021

[Hide Comment] Definitely NOT 5.11a. Maybe in 1989 for the FA - but now 30 years later the edges and feet are worn down increasing the difficulty. I think upper/hard 5.11 is appropriate. Reading the comments and tics here indicates others agree. Grade aside, this is a long super fun, long route. May 15, 2023

[Hide Comment] Heads up, the seventh bolt can be shifted up and down by hand. I don't think it is dangerous (right now) but could use some love. It might just need to be tightened up a bit so it expands, or some glue squeezed into the hole.

Fun route, but I thought Terror of Tiny Town was better. Very fun start, but the rest is less interesting. Jul 3, 2025