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Routes in Coffin Buttress

C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,057 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave Budge on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Fantastic, can be done in one pitch from ground with 60m rope by linking up with the Coffin and continuing right at roof. Brilliant dihedral climbing, great exposure, often pretty thin. As a single pitch it is one of the best in Utah.

Descent: Rap down other (viewer's left from bottom) side of the Coffin to chain anchors for The Coffin route. One more single-rope rap to ground.

Protection

Standard rack with extra small stuff: wires, offsets, TCUs.

Photos

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Mark Kadlec
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark Kadlec   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Definitely worth doing! We did it as a second pitch belaying from the chains, found it at least as hard as The Coffin's crack, with some pretty funky climbing, especially getting into the second dihedral near the top. Jun 13, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.9+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.9+
I thought it added nicely to the reg. coffin. This variation adds on 2 more crux 5.9 sections. Nov 5, 2010
Alec LaLonde
  5.9
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9
Not quite sure what the hype is about this route...or the three stars in the guidebook. Really? If done as the 2nd pitch of the Coffin, It's not really sustained or aesthetic. Some interesting and fun climbing, but no more so (or harder) than the direct variation to Crescent Crack. Nov 3, 2010
Wolfski Wolf
slc, ut
 
Wolfski Wolf   slc, ut
 
finally got around to doing this. great climb. gotta go back and do it the coffin and right side in one pitch though Aug 11, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
Hadn't done this for a long time and had forgotten what a great pitch it is! With a 70m rope you can just get down with one rope off the left side. Oct 4, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.9
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.9
I love the rightside variation! I usually do it in 2 pitches, but next time I'll try it in a single pitch! Sep 21, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.9+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9+
A nice finish to the Coffin. Not as good as I thought it would be, but better than the 2nd pitch of the Coffin. Awkward does not begin to describe it. Mar 1, 2006
Great in one pitch if you have PLENTY of gear and like thin awkward cracks! Oct 4, 2005
tenesmus  
 
Agreed. Run it together - its so much fun! How many people just do the coffin without this pitch. It really adds a lot to the climb. (Especially if you've just gotten off Crescent/Final Link) Sep 30, 2005