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Rightside Variation

5.9+, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 55 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Coffin Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Fantastic, can be done in one pitch from ground with 60m rope by linking up with the Coffin and continuing right at roof. Brilliant dihedral climbing, great exposure, often pretty thin. As a single pitch it is one of the best in Utah.

Descent: Rap down other (viewer's left from bottom) side of the Coffin to chain anchors for The Coffin route. One more single-rope rap to ground.


Standard rack with extra small stuff: wires, offsets, TCUs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Agreed. Run it together - its so much fun! How many people just do the coffin without this pitch. It really adds a lot to the climb. (Especially if you've just gotten off Crescent/Final Link) Sep 30, 2005
[Hide Comment] Great in one pitch if you have PLENTY of gear and like thin awkward cracks! Oct 4, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
[Hide Comment] A nice finish to the Coffin. Not as good as I thought it would be, but better than the 2nd pitch of the Coffin. Awkward does not begin to describe it. Mar 1, 2006
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
[Hide Comment] I love the rightside variation! I usually do it in 2 pitches, but next time I'll try it in a single pitch! Sep 21, 2006
Stan Pitcher
[Hide Comment] Hadn't done this for a long time and had forgotten what a great pitch it is! With a 70m rope you can just get down with one rope off the left side. Oct 4, 2007
J Wolfski
slc, ut
[Hide Comment] finally got around to doing this. great climb. gotta go back and do it the coffin and right side in one pitch though Aug 11, 2008
Alec LaLonde
[Hide Comment] Not quite sure what the hype is about this route...or the three stars in the guidebook. Really? If done as the 2nd pitch of the Coffin, It's not really sustained or aesthetic. Some interesting and fun climbing, but no more so (or harder) than the direct variation to Crescent Crack. Nov 3, 2010
Greg Gavin
[Hide Comment] I thought it added nicely to the reg. coffin. This variation adds on 2 more crux 5.9 sections. Nov 5, 2010
Mark Kadlec
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Definitely worth doing! We did it as a second pitch belaying from the chains, found it at least as hard as The Coffin's crack, with some pretty funky climbing, especially getting into the second dihedral near the top. Jun 13, 2012